Hunnun pukeminen 2 / How to wear a veil 2

Näitä tarvitset / You will need

Lyhty, ruukku, sakset ja koukku eivät ole tarpeen / You won't need a lantern, the hook, jug and scissors.
  • Huntu (tässä pyöreä huntu, jonka halkaisija on 1m)
  • Leukaliina (tässä 50 x 90 cm suorakaide) ne on tehdy ohuesta hamppukankaasta mutta voit tehdä ne myös ohuesta pellavasta.

Hunnun ja leukaliinan mittoja voi muutella oman makunsa mukaan, mutta on kannattavaa tehdä hunnusta ennemmin liian iso kuin pieni. Pyöreä hamppuhuntu on suosikkini (hamppua käytettiin pellavan tavoin keskiajalla). Se on tehty Medeltidsmoden valikoimien kaikista ohuimmasta hamppukankaasta, helma on rullapäärmätty pellavalangalla.

  • Neuloja. (Tähän tyyliin tarvitaan 2 pidempää ja 5 lyhyttä neulaa.)

Parhaita huntuneuloja ovat tähän tarkoitukseen valmistetut keskiaikaisten neulojen replikat. Huntuneuloissa on eroja ja käyttäjillä erilaisia makuja niiden suhteen. Itse pidän eniten messinkisistä, noin viisisenttisistä ja mahdollisimman terävistä neuloista. Huntuneuloja on hyvä olla eri mittaisia eri tarkoitusten varalta. Tässä tyylissä tarvitset kaksi pidempää  (noin 7-9cm) ja viisi lyhyempää (n. 5cm) neulaa.

  • Myssy

Hunnun pukemisessa on tärkeintä, että on hyvä ja tukeva perusta, jolle huntukokonaisuuden rakentaa ja kiinnittää neulat. Hyvä perusta on myssy, esimerkiksi tämä pyhän Birgitan myssy on aivan erinomainen pohja hunnulle.

  • Tekoletit

Oma lisäkkeeni on pellavaa ja tehty Lontoosta löydetyn lettilisäkkeen mallin mukaan. Lisää sen tekemisestä ja alkuperäisestä voit lukea täältä.

 

  • A veil ( this one is a round veil, with a 1m diameter)
  • wimple (here a 50×90 rectangle) these are made of very thin hemp but linen works just as well.

Feel free to adjust the dimensions of your veil and wimple. However, it makes sense to make them rather big than small. This round hemp veil is my favourite one. Hemp is an excellent material, and was used like linen during the Middle Ages. This veil is made of the thinnest hemp from Medeltidsmode and the hem is rolled with linen thread.

  • Veil pins (This style requires 2 longer pins and 5 shorter ones)

The secret to successful wearing of veils is in the veil pins. I like my pins to be around 5 cm, brass and quite sharp. A selection of sizes and lenghts is good to have for different styles. The long pins here are about 9 cm, the short ones about 5 cm.

  • A Cap

An important thing to have is something to pin the entire headress on. A cap ala St. Bridget is really really good for this purpose.

  • Hairpiece aka fake braids

 Fashinable 14th century cornettes, now available also for those of us with shorter hair. For more on this hairpiece, look here.

Hunnun pukeminen / How to put on the veil

 

Hunnun alle / Underpinnings

 

Myssy / the Cap

Aloitetaan pukemalla myssy, joka sidotaan napakasti pään ympärille. Laita hiukset mahdollisimman hyvin myssyn sisään, myös otsatukka. Poista korvikset (tosin tämä tyyli piilottaa erittäin hyvin korvat). Mieluisinta pellavamyssyään ei muuten kannata käyttää uimalakkina rusehtavassa järvivedessä, ellei halua siihen kellertävää sävyä.

We begin with putting on the cap, tying it on very snugly. Tuck your hair into the cap as neatly as possible, also your fringe. Remove any earrings, although with this style, your ears are very well hidden. It is also worth noting that you should really not use your favourite cap when swimming in a lake if you don’t want it to get this yellowish-brown tint.

Letit / Braid hairpiece

Seuraavaksi puetaan letit. Nosta lettien nauha otsalta päälaelle. Varmista, että letit ovat suorassa ja tasaisesti. Lettien paino pitää ne melko hyvin paikallaan, mutta olen laittanut yhden neulan läpi lettien lautanauhasta, myssyn nauhasta ja itse myssystä. Se viimeistelee myssyn napakan kiinnityksen.

Next we put on the braids. Lift the band of the braids off your forehead, onto the top of your head. Make sure the braids are even and sit nicely on both sides of your face. The weight of the braids keeps them usually in place quite well, but I like to put one pin through the band of the braids, the band on the cap and the cap itself. It keeps the cap nice and snug, too.

 

Leukaliina / The Wimple

Leukaliina auki / Wimple open

Sitten otetaan esiin leukaliina, jolla on tässä tyylissä tärkeä rooli. Jos ei halua rullapäärmettä näkyviin, voi yläreunaa taittaa vähän, kuten kuvassa näkyy. (Näissä kuvissa näkyy myös, miten mainion ohutta tuo hamppukangas onkaan!)

Then we take out the wimple, which is a very important piece in this style. If you don’t want to display your rolled hem, you can fold it a bit, like you see in the picture. (This picture also shows how wonderfully thin this hemp is!)

Leukaliinan sitominen / Wrapping the wimple

 

Leukaliinan asettuminen / How to place the wimple

Leukaliina sidotaan pään ympärille niin, että reuna eli liinan keskiosa tulee leuan kärkeen ja leukaliina kiinnittyy takaraivolle (suoraan päälaelle sidottu leukaliina ei pysy yhtä napakasti paikallaan). Se kannattaa kiinnittää aika tiukasti, sillä se löystyy käytössä aina hieman. Leukaliina kiinnitetään takaraivolle yhdellä neulalla, jolla kiinnitetään liinan päät toisiinsa ja leukaliina itse myssyyn.

Wrap the wimple around your head so that the middle of the wimple is placed at the tip of your chin and the ends of the wimple get pinned to the back of your head (note: not the top of your head, that way the fit of the wimple will be much droopier). Do wrap the wimple fairly tightly, as it does loosen a bit as the day goes on. Pin the wimple at the back of your head with one pin, securing both sides of the wimple together and both of them onto the cap.

 

Lettien asettelu / Setting the braids

Vedä lettejä pikkuisen ulos leukaliinan alta, mutta jätä päät kuitenkin tukevasti leukaliinan sisälle. Lettien on hyvä olla ainakin leukapituiset.

Pull your braids out a bit from under the wimple so that they’re nice and visible, but do leave the ends safely inside the wimple. For this, the braids need to be at least chin lenght.

Leukaliinan viimeistely / Finishing off the neckline

Viimeistele leukaliina laittamalla sen reuna kaula-aukosta sisään.

Finish the wimple by putting the lower edge into the neckline.

 

Huntu / The Veil

Pyöreä huntu / the round veil

Seuraavaksi otetaan esille huntu. Metrin halkaisijaltaan oleva huntu on aika iso, mutta taitettuna se ei päässä näytä näin jättimäiselle. Tykkään taittaa huntua edestä ainakin pikkaisen, koska taitettua reunaa on mielestäni helpompi asetella. Mutta se on makuasia.

Next up,  take out the veil. A veil with a 100 cm diameter is quite large, but when folded a bit and properly placed on the head, it doesn’t look quite as large. I prefer to fold my veils at least a bit at the edge surrounding my face, since I find the folded edge much easier to set around my face. But it is a matter of taste.

Taita ja keskitä / Fold and center

Tee huntuun sopiva taite, reunaa voi taittaa hieman (kuten kuvasssa) tai hunnun voi taittaa vaikka puoliksi, vähän sen mukaan mitä on aikeissa tehdä ja miten pitkä huntu tuntuu kätevältä.  Keskitä huntu mahdollisimman tarkasti niin, että molemmilla puolilla kasvoja on yhtä paljon kangasta.

Make a fold on the veil, you can fold it a bit (like in the picture above) or even fold the veil in half – depending on what you are planning to do during the day and what kind of veil seems suitable for that. Center the veil as well as possible, so that the ends sit evenly.

Asettele huntu tasan / Set the veil evenly

 

Pieni taite päälaella / a small fold on the top of the head

Seuraavaksi tehdään pieni taite päälaelle.

Then you need to make a small fold on the top of your head.

Pidempi neula / Placing the longer needle

 

Pitkillä neuloilla kiinnitetään huntu letteihin ja letit huntuineen myssyyn. Työnnä neula taitteen päältä läpi hunnun, letin yläpään ja myssyn. Jätä terävä pää hunnun alle. Kiinnitä molemmat puolet samalla tavalla.

The long pins are needed to fasten the veil to the braids and the veils and braid to the cap. Push the needle through the fold on the veil, through the top of the braids and the cap. Leave the sharp end under the veil.  Attach both sides.

 

Pinning the wimple to the veil / Hunnun kiinnittäminen leukaliinaan

Nyt on jo melkein valmista, mutta huntu pitää vielä kiinnittää leukaliinaan. Kiinnitä hunnun alimmaiseksi jäävään kerrokseen (ks. kuva) molemmille puolille yhdet neulat, joilla kiinnität hunnun leukaliinaan. Tällä neulalla voit myös asetella lettiä halutessasi.

Now we are almost done here, but the veil still needs to be fastened to the wimple. Place a pin on both sides of your face, attaching the bottom layer of the veil (see picture above) to the wimple. You can also set the braid a bit when placing these pins.

 

Neula päälaelle / Pin on the top of the head

Viimeistele päähine laittamalla yksi neula pään päälle. Näin tuuli ei pääse pöllyttämään huntua irti takaapäin puhaltamalla. Tässä voit myös asetella hunnun etureunan niin, ettei myssy näy (tai ainakaan myssyn naru).

Oma myssy on näissä kuvissa näkyvillä, koska sitä tarvitaan otsalla peittämään mahdollisimman hyvin se pikkuisen haasteellinen asia, että näitä kuvia ottaessa minulla oli violetinpunaiset hiukset ja aika lyhyt, hyvin omapäinen otsatukka. (Olisitteko uskoneet?) Eikä se myssy pahalta näytä, mutta sitä en ole bongannut yhdestäkään maalauksesta tms.

Finish off the headdress by placing one more pin at the top of the head. It helps keep the veil intact even if the wind were to blow from behind you. You can also finish off by setting the edge of the veil so that the edge of the cap is hidden, and the strap on the cap especially.

The edge of my cap is visible in all these pictures, because I needed some extra coverage to hide the fact that when we took these pictures I had short purplish red hair with a very stubborn fringe. (Would you believe?) And the edge of the cap doesn’t look that bad, it’s just that I haven’t seen a similar thing on any medieval source. 

Valmis huntu

Tältä sen pitäisi valmiina näyttää.

This is what it should look like when finished.

 

Takaisin huntusivulle / Back to the page on veils

18 vastausta artikkeliin “Hunnun pukeminen 2 / How to wear a veil 2”

  1. thank you for very nice and clear istructions! However, since I have waist long very thick hair, I would like to use my own hair for the braids. Now here enters my problem… I wear the cap, but when I do the braids come out very low under the edge of the cap and look silly. I don’t want to make ”braid holes” in the cap to pull out braids, and if I put the cap far back enough to let the braids out, the cap slides off and is quite useless… anyone else with this issue or am I being daft?
    Is it perhaps more likely that they did not wear a cap at all, but a fillet type thingie?

    1. Late late late answer: but for some reason this popped up only now! Wearing a fillet is an option or just working around the problem with only a wimple – the cap is by no means obligatory. Now that I have long hair, I sometimes wear my braids so that I just braid them regularly so that they begin near my ears and pin them up over my head. My cap allows to be worn over these braids, juse peeking out, but experience has it that everyone is different! As there is no sure way of telling what was done (and most probably not everyone did the same thing anyway), experiment and find what works best for you! Fillets, wimples, braids, caps, extra veils, anything you can use as a base to create a sturdy base to set your headress on so that it stays put!

  2. hmmm, just struck me, perhaps the braids should not come from the top down, but rather from the bottom up and be pinned to the top of hte head? hm….

    1. I have seen it done both ways: with braids coming from above and below. If you want to braid them on from above, people just push their caps a little back and show some hair in the front (will be covered by the veil in the end). But then it depends on the shape of your head, if you can keep the cap on well enough. Another solution is pinning linen bands around your head (think headband) to create something to pin the veil to. Like a fillet type thingie, but if under the chin feels uncomfortable, try pinning it so that it pins to the nape of your neck.

      I hope this helps! :)

  3. This source helps display how a headband strap and barbette helps give any veils, wimples, and other items better support. http://www.virtue.to/articles/veils.html Keep in mind that the model used is very small, so it may distort how you think the straps should look. A cap may seem easier, but if you’re long haired this source has a better method, since the barbette can be moved back further if needed, and the headband can help keep the barbette in place.

    1. Cynthia Virtues website is certainly a classic! I remember reading that as a teen in the 90’s! The memories! :)

      The strap-technique is an alternative to the cap that some find more comfy (especially if you like barbettes vs wimples) – I used to do that before the information on the cap was published! It works well too, especially if you don’t have very slippery hair (which I unfortunately do, which is why I really like the cap).

  4. Thank you so much for this! I have been trying to figure out what to do about my very, very short hair (since I don’t want to look like a criminal or religious penitent). I will be using hair instead of flax, as I’m a dark brunette rather than a blonde (and I really want to have something near my own color). I had thought I was going to have to go get a wig, but this will allow me to get a small amount of hair extensions instead to make just the braids, which will be much less expensive.

    I tried the veil and wimple, but instead of attaching to a cap, I used a very simple kerchief tied at the back (where the veil hides it), since I do not have time to make a cap this week with all the garb I’m in the process of making. This worked exceedingly well.

    I pinned you to my Pinterest garb board so I can find your page easily again, and a couple of my friends have already pinned you as well. You are providing such a great service.

  5. Very helpful!
    I was wondering, though, what does the cap look like all the way around?

  6. That is so lovely – thank you for the detailed descriptions and instructions. it was very helpful and fun to see

  7. Thank you, this helped me very much. Please tell me how you hemmed the circular veil.
    I love your ’fake’ hair, I have some unspun hemp which I will try to use as two braids.
    It has always been a strugle for me to get my head dress right, I think I will be good at it next time.

    Kiitos, tämä auttoi minua hyvin paljon. Kerro minulle miten juuttuneet pyöreän verhon.
    Rakastan ’fake karvoista, minulla on joitakin kehräämättömät hamppu jota yritän käyttää kahta punokset.
    Se on aina ollut strugle minulle saada pääni mekko oikeassa, luulen on siinä hyvä ensi kerralla.
    (google translate, lol)

    1. Google translate is an absolutely hysterical tool when it comes to Finnish! :D
      I hemmed thís particular circular veil with doing a rolled hem. (I hate making rolled hems – mine always loosen with wear.) I also hem veils with tiny hem stitch, which I find much more durable and more enjoyable to make. But it’s mostly a matter of personal preference. Same applies to heardresses, it often takes time to find a style that feels comfortable and looks good but once you’ve found it it’s all good. :) Decent veil pins help too!

  8. These are the best instructions for veil and wimple that I have seen anywhere. Lovely!! You mentioned Christine de Pizan. I have to make her headdress. How would you accomplish that if you were doing it? You can find me on FB as Suzanne Savoy, an actress living in New York. I would love to talk with you about this!!

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