{"id":739,"date":"2011-01-25T19:56:26","date_gmt":"2011-01-25T17:56:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=739"},"modified":"2013-07-04T14:06:40","modified_gmt":"2013-07-04T11:06:40","slug":"medieval-garments-reconstructed","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=739","title":{"rendered":"Medieval Garments Reconstructed"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>
Tutustumassa Herjolfsnesmekkoon K\u00f6\u00f6penhaminassa \/ Examining a dress from Herjolfsnes in Copenhagen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Vuosien odotus <\/a>on p\u00e4\u00e4ttynyt ja hyppysiss\u00e4ni on vihdoin uunituore kappale kuuluisaa ja ihanaa Gr\u00f6nlantilaista vaatel\u00f6yt\u00f6\u00e4 (eli sit\u00e4 Herjolfsnesia) esittelev\u00e4st\u00e4 kaavakirjasta Medieval Garments Reconstructed. Virallisesti kirja ilmestyy 2. helmikuuta, mutta tilasin omani k\u00e4rsim\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4n\u00e4 Tanskan Kansallismuseon museokaupan verkkokaupasta<\/a>, kun puskaradio tiesi kertoa ett\u00e4 sielt\u00e4 sit\u00e4 jo saa.<\/p>\n

Olen odottanut t\u00e4t\u00e4 kirjaa kovasti siksi, ett\u00e4 edellisess\u00e4 l\u00f6yt\u00f6\u00e4 k\u00e4sittelev\u00e4ss\u00e4 julkaisussa vaatteita ei esitelty kaavakuvin, vaikka siin\u00e4 upeat valokuvat onkin. Edelliset kaavakuvat oli piirretty melkein sata vuotta sitten l\u00f6yd\u00f6n ollessa tuore. Niiden puutteellisuudesta ja tulkinnanvaraisuudesta on k\u00e4yty kovasti keskustelua, vaikka niit\u00e4 soveltamalla saa kyll\u00e4 esikuvaa muistuttavia ja toimivia vaatteita.<\/p>\n

Ensivaikutelmani kirjasta on, ett\u00e4 siin\u00e4 on mahtavia asioita ja sitten asioita joita olisin toivonut n\u00e4kev\u00e4ni enemm\u00e4n. Olen iloinen siit\u00e4, ettei mik\u00e4\u00e4n vaikuta silt\u00e4 ett\u00e4 omat tulkintani olisivat niin erilaisia ett\u00e4 koko vaatevarasto pit\u00e4isi laittaa uusiksi. On paljon juttuja, joita oikein syyhytt\u00e4\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 kokeilemaan!<\/p>\n

Kirjassa on kolme lukua: johdatus l\u00f6yt\u00f6\u00f6n, rekonstruktion tekeminen ja itse kaavat.<\/p>\n

Kirjan alkupuoli ja erityisesti kankaan tekemisest\u00e4 kertovat osuudet ovat kerrassaan mainioita ja antavat paljon Woven Into the Earthinsa sataan kertaan lukeneellekin. Jo n\u00e4iden takia kirja kannattaa ostaa.<\/p>\n

Valitettavasti pikkutarkka ote lopahtaa kun siirryt\u00e4\u00e4n kankaan kudonnasta vaatteiden ompeluun. Se on minulle pettymys siksi, ett\u00e4 r\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4lintaidot ovat erityisen l\u00e4hell\u00e4 syd\u00e4nt\u00e4ni.\u00c2\u00a0 Herjolfsnesin l\u00f6yd\u00f6n ehdoton kauneus on minusta siin\u00e4, miten huolella ja upeasti vaatteet on ommeltu. Lautanauhahuolittelut, kaulusten litist\u00e4minen pikkiriikkisill\u00e4 etupistoilla, erilaiset saumatyypit ja muut yksityiskohdat osoittavat todellista taidokkuutta silloisen tunnetun maailman laidalta.<\/p>\n

Ompelupuolesta kirja tarjoaa kuitenkin samat kaavakuvat ja tiedot kuin Woven into the Earthkin. Valokuvat erilaisista ty\u00f6tavoista ja seikkaper\u00e4isemm\u00e4t selostukset olisivat avanneet esimerkiksi footweavingia, joka on askarruttanut monia. Valokuvien puute selittyy sill\u00e4, ett\u00e4 kirjassa esitellyt rekonstruktiot on kaikki ommeltu koneella ja huoliteltu puuvillanauhalla. Minusta edes yhden puvun tuottaminen k\u00e4sin edell\u00e4 mainituilla tekniikoilla olisi lis\u00e4nnyt kirjan antia huomattavasti. Tulee mieleen, ett\u00e4 rahoitus on loppunut kesken tai projektille on muuten tullut kiire. Muuten rekonstruktion laittaminen alkuper\u00e4isen puvun rinnalle on hyv\u00e4 idea, joka auttaa muodostamaan k\u00e4sityst\u00e4 mekosta uutena.<\/p>\n

Itse kaavaosuus tarjoaa kauan kaivatut kaavat parhaiten s\u00e4ilyneist\u00e4 vaatekappaleista: 9 mekkoa (aikuisten ja lasten, miesten ja naisten mekkoja ei ole eroteltu toisistaan, koska sukupuolen m\u00e4\u00e4ritys on n\u00e4iden vaatteiden kohdalla vaikeaa) 6 huppua, kaksi lakkia ja kaksi sukkaa. Kaavaosuudessa on paljon tarpeellista tietoa alkuper\u00e4isten vaatteiden kappaleiden t\u00e4m\u00e4nhetkisest\u00e4 muodosta. Uudet, vaatteiden valmistamista varten tarkoitetut kaavat on tehty lis\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 symmetriaa. Lapsille on tarjolla senttikoot ja aikuisille koot S-L.<\/p>\n

Odotan ihan mielenkiinnolla sit\u00e4, millaisia vaatteita n\u00e4iden ohjeiden perusteella syntyy. Ajatus keskiaikavaatteesta M-koossa on hieman outo, kun on tottunut tekem\u00e4\u00e4n niit\u00e4 aina mittojen mukaan, k\u00e4ytt\u00e4j\u00e4ns\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4lle. T\u00e4t\u00e4 ajatusta olisin ehk\u00e4 kaavojen ohjeissa korostanut enemm\u00e4n.<\/p>\n

Eniten muotoon leikattujen vaatteiden kohdalla kaavojen yksil\u00f6llisyys nousee v\u00e4ist\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 esiin. Pid\u00e4n Nethertonin Medieval Clothing ja Textilesiss\u00e4 esitt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4 teoriaa siit\u00e4, ett\u00e4 sivukiilat ovat alunperin olleet kolmioita ja saaneet lopullisen muotonsa istutuksen my\u00f6t\u00e4, hyvinkin todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isen\u00e4. Jos kolmioita ty\u00f6st\u00e4\u00e4 yl\u00e4vartalon mukaan, lopputulos muistuttaa alkuper\u00e4isen mekon sivukiilaa, mutta on kuitenkin jokaisella v\u00e4h\u00e4n erilainen. Siksi pohdituttaa saadaanko valmiiksi muotoon leikatulla sivukiilalla kaikille sopivaa muotoa.<\/p>\n

Kirja siis kannattaa ehdottomasti ostaa jos on kiinnostunut keskiajan pukeutumisesta, mutta sen pohjalta ty\u00f6skennelless\u00e4\u00e4n kannattaa k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 omaa harkintaa ja muokata kaavaa itselleen sopivaksi tarvittavista kohdista. Niinkuin nyt aina kaikissa k\u00e4sity\u00f6projekteissa, keskiajalla ja t\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n.<\/p>\n

***(I’m sorry for the possible mistakes in the translation, I have a cold and I’m super tired, but I want to get this little review out today. Usually my English isn’t absolutely hopeless. Maybe.)<\/p>\n

I’ve waited for this book since April 2009 – now I finally have a fresh copy on my hands! Medieval Garments Reconstructed presents some new\u00c2\u00a0 and some familiar information on the fascinating and famous garments excavated from norse Greenland. The official publication date is on the 2nd of February, but I decided to put an end to my not-so-patient wait and order a book from the museum shop<\/a> in Nationalmuseet in Copenhagen as soon as I head through the medievalist grapevine that you could already buy the book from there.<\/p>\n

I have been looking forward to this book mostly because I knew it would include what I missed most in Woven into the Earth – new pattern drawings of the garments. Before this book, we’ve had to work from line drawings form almost a hundred years ago, when the garments were excavated. And there has been much talk on how accurate the line drawings from the 1920’s actually are, even though working from them produces a look that is very similar to the norse garments in their present state.<\/p>\n

My first impression of the book was that it contained some really great things and then left out some things I had really hoped would have been included. I’m happy that the book didn’t make me question my entire wardrobe (our conclusions are very similar) and that it gave me a ton of ideas I can’t wait to try out. I think I’ll never stop being fascinated by these items.<\/p>\n

The book consists of three chapters. They cover the find, the textile production and sewing and the last chapter covers the actual patterns.<\/p>\n

The first part of the book is fantastic and very detailed. I especially enjoyed the description of the textile production. It provides a lot of new information also for those of us that have read Woven into the Earth (WITE) a hundred times over.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately the book loses the meticulous detail once it progresses to the garment construction. This is a pity, not only because I have a passion for tailoring but because for me the beauty of the Herjolfsnes garments lies in the expertise and care that has been put into the finishing. The tiny stab stitches, the different seam types, the tablet woven edges show great skill from the very edge of the medieval known world.<\/p>\n

The sewing part consists mostly of stuff that has been published in WITE. (And they have also chosen to include the button making technique from Textiles and Clothing which doesn’t produce the kind of buttons it is supposed to.) It was disappointing that the writers have not applied the same detail to the tailoring as to the weaving. I would have enjoyed pictures of some of the finishing provesses, like footweaving, which would have shed more light on the how to than just the drawings.<\/p>\n

The reason why there are none of these illustrations is that all of the reproductions produced for this book were machine sewn and finished with cotton tape. It would have contributed very much to the book if they had sewn up even one of them by hand and tried out and illustrated the techinques. I cannot help thinking that they may have run out of time or funding? Otherwise I think it is brilliant to include a reconstruction next to the picture of the actual find. It helps illustrate what the garment would have looked like when new.<\/p>\n

The book provides patterns on the most well preserved items: 9 dresses (some for children and some for adults. There is no specific information on which garments are for men and which for women, because the gender differentation for these garments _is _ very difficult), 6 hoods and two caps and two different kinds of hose. The patterns include the shapes of what the garments look like now as well as evened out and sized patterns for making clothes to fit yourself. Childrens clothing has children’s sizes in cm, adult sizes are S-L.<\/p>\n

I look forward to seeing how the patterns work out when people start using them to make their own clothes. The idea of medieval clothes in S or L sounds a bit odd at first, especially since I’m so used to the concept of making clothes to measure and tailoring and fitting them onto people. I think I would have given the concept of fitting a little more thought in the instructions on how to use the patterns.<\/p>\n

This question becomes most evident when working with the more fitted styles of garment (type 1b), I suppose. I think that Nethertons theory from her article in Medieval Clothing and Textiles is very plausible: that the side gores were originally cut out as triangles anf then fitted to the person the garment was made for. When fitting a triangle the end result is very much like the shape of the side gores in the original – yet slightly different on each person.\u00c2\u00a0 This makes me wonder what kind of a fit a side gore that has been shaped already when cut out will provide.<\/p>\n

All in all I think the book is a worth while purchase to everyone interested in medieval clothing. However, when making garments with the help of this book it is good to give the project good thought and fit the pattern to match ones persona size and shape. But then again, that is something that has to be thought about whenever one is making clothes. Like I’m sure they did\u00c2\u00a0 in medieval Herjolfsnes.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vuosien odotus on p\u00e4\u00e4ttynyt ja hyppysiss\u00e4ni on vihdoin uunituore kappale kuuluisaa ja ihanaa Gr\u00f6nlantilaista vaatel\u00f6yt\u00f6\u00e4 (eli sit\u00e4 Herjolfsnesia) esittelev\u00e4st\u00e4 kaavakirjasta Medieval Garments Reconstructed. Virallisesti kirja ilmestyy 2. helmikuuta, mutta tilasin omani k\u00e4rsim\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4n\u00e4 Tanskan Kansallismuseon museokaupan verkkokaupasta, kun puskaradio tiesi kertoa ett\u00e4 sielt\u00e4 sit\u00e4 jo saa. Olen odottanut t\u00e4t\u00e4 kirjaa kovasti siksi, ett\u00e4 edellisess\u00e4 l\u00f6yt\u00f6\u00e4 k\u00e4sittelev\u00e4ss\u00e4 … <\/p>\n

Jatka lukemista ”Medieval Garments Reconstructed”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[4,13],"tags":[74,49,75,174],"class_list":["post-739","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-kirjat","category-tutkimus","tag-arviot","tag-herjolfsnes","tag-kaavat","tag-kirjat"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-bV","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/739","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=739"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/739\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1539,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/739\/revisions\/1539"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=739"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=739"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=739"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}