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Totuus: keskiaikainen vaateparteni on kurjassa tilassa. Lapsensaanti aiheutti ilmeisen pysyv\u00e4ksi j\u00e4\u00e4neen reilun kymmenen kilon ja parin vaatekoon pudotuksen, mink\u00e4 seurauksena olen laiha ja kaikki keskiaikavaatteeni (ne jotka sopivat ennen ylleni kuin valettu) roikkuvat ja istuvat suurinpiirtein yht\u00e4 hyvin kuin perunas\u00e4kki. Ja keskiaikaisessa tyyliss\u00e4 vaatteiden istuvuus on l\u00e4hes yht\u00e4 t\u00e4rke\u00e4\u00e4 kuin se, mist\u00e4 ne on tehty. Aargh!<\/p>\n
Melkein kaikkia vaatteita voi kyll\u00e4 viel\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4, mutta niist\u00e4 jokainen vaatii pient\u00e4 tai suurempaa laittoa.<\/p>\n
Mist\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4tin alottaa korjaussavotan? No loogisesti tietenkin mekosta, jossa vikana on ensisijaisesti se, etteiv\u00e4t sen somisteet istu kankaan tyyppiin ja kuteeseen. Mutta kyll\u00e4 sellainenkin voi h\u00e4irit\u00e4! (Aika paljon)<\/p>\n
Varsinkin, kun kyse on lempimekostani. Se on vaatteistani vanhin edelleen k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 oleva. Pakkaan sen mukaan AINA, sill\u00e4 siin\u00e4 on mystisen hyv\u00e4 olla. Se p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 tulee aina hyv\u00e4 mieli. Sellaisia vaatteita varmaan lienee muillakin?<\/p>\n
Tein mekon muistaakseni vuonna 2004. Se on matkallaan kokenut muutaman muodonmuutoksen jo t\u00e4t\u00e4 ennen: olen lyhent\u00e4nyt ja vuorittanut hihojen roikkuvia ’kieli\u00e4’ pariin otteeseen. Parasta mekossa on sen mukavuus, kiva helman laskeutuvuus ja ehdottomasti kangas. Yli kymmenen vuoden j\u00e4lkeenk\u00e4\u00e4n siin\u00e4 ei ole yht\u00e4\u00e4n kulumaa. Se on kuin uusi. Kangas on kohtuullisen ilmavaa toimikasta joka kes\u00e4ll\u00e4 hengitt\u00e4\u00e4 ja toimii mainiosti talvella v\u00e4likerroksena. Se muistuttaa mukavasti semmoista keskiaikaista paikallisesti tuotettua kangasta. Siis ei mit\u00e4\u00e4n tuontiverkaa.<\/p>\n
Siksi turkissomisteet ja helmet… no kun vaan ei. Kauniitahan ne ovat, mutta ne eiv\u00e4t sovi t\u00e4m\u00e4n kankaan kanssa yhteen. Vaikutelma on kuin k\u00e4ytt\u00e4isi iltapuvun kanssa tennareita.<\/p>\n
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Truth: My medieval wardorbe is in a sad state. Having a baby caused a seemingly permanent weight loss of over 10 kilos which means a couple of dress sizes. This means that I’m thin and all my medival clothes (that used to fit like a glove) fit miserably and feel like wearing a sack. And in the medieval mindset, how well the clothes fit you is almost as important as what they are made of. Aaargh!<\/p>\n
I can still use almost everything, but everything needs taking in and tweaking in all sorts of places.<\/p>\n
So where do I begin? LOGICALLY, I start with the dress where the issue is primarily the fact that the fur and pearls don’t work with the type and weave of the fabric the dress is made of. But this sort of thing can also be a total bother! (A big one.)<\/p>\n
Especially, since we are talking about my favourite medieval dress. It is the oldest one I still use actively. In fact, \u00c2\u00a0I always pack it, because it just feels mysteriously wonderful to wear. I always feel good wearing it. I guess other people have these sort of mysterious feel-good clothes too?<\/p>\n
If I recall correctly, I made it in 2004. It’s been redone a bit over the years, namely I’ve been tweaking the pendant sleeves and relining them. What I like best about it is how comfortable it is, how nicely the hem falls into folds and most of all the fabric. After over ten years, there is no signs of wear! It’s a relatively airy twill that breathes in the summer and insulates well as a middle layer in the winter. It also nicely resembles a locally produced wool medieval twill. Not imported broadcloth.<\/p>\n
And that’s why fur trims and pearls….well just no. They are really pretty but to be honest (to history) they don’t go with the material. Overall, it looks a bit like wearing Converse sneakers with your evening gown. it just clashes.<\/p>\n
T\u00e4ss\u00e4 viimeinen selfie ennen suurta muutosta.<\/p>\n The last selfie before the big change.<\/p>\n L\u00e4hikuva kankaasta, jossa n\u00e4kyy ehk\u00e4 miksi siit\u00e4 niin tykk\u00e4\u00e4n!<\/p>\n Closeup of the fabric – can you see why I love it?<\/p>\n Hihojen kaninkarvat ja roikkuva koristeellinen kieleke: rips rips nips nips. Ne otin talteen ja siirr\u00e4n aikanaan (kunhan l\u00f6yd\u00e4n sopivan kankaan) johonkin hieman fiinimp\u00e4\u00e4n mekkoon.<\/p>\n —-<\/p>\n The fur lining and pendant sleeve: rip rip snip snip off they went. I of course kept them and I will eventually (once I find the right fabric) sew them onto another dress.<\/p>\n Napsin my\u00f6s postauksen yl\u00e4kuvassa n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t helmet kaula-aukon tienoilta irti, yksi kerrallaan. My\u00f6s ne laitetaan aikanaan johonkin toiseen vaatteeseen. Vapautunut olo ja uudet, lyhyet hihat! Hihhei! Lyhythihaisena mekko muistuttaa enemmm\u00e4n alkupe\u00e4ist\u00e4 esikuvaansa\u00c2\u00a0Herjolfsnes d10587:ia.<\/p>\n —<\/p>\n I also snipped off the pearls which ou can see in the picture at the top fo the post, snip snip, one by one. I’ll transfer them to another project sometime. Having done that the short sleeves feel all so nice! With short sleeves it also resembles the original inspiration piece Herjolfsnes d10587 more closely. P\u00e4\u00e4tin samalla pikkuisen parantaa mekon istuvuutta olkap\u00e4iden kohdalta. Ja koska kyseess\u00e4 on projekti, ”pieni justeeraus ja kaula-aukon pienent\u00e4minen” tarkoitti lopulta olkasaumojen purkamista, hihojen laittoa, ep\u00e4toivoa, s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00f6\u00e4 ja sadattelua. No, samalla tuli korjailtua vanhoja saumoja!<\/p>\n Kuvassa ompelen olkasaumaa sauman p\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4. Siis oikealta puolelta. Mahtava tekniikka! Helpottaa vaikeiden kohtien ompelua ja saumakohdasta tulee todella tasainen. Lanka ei muuten k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 n\u00e4y ihan niin paljoa kuin t\u00e4ss\u00e4 l\u00e4hikuvassa.<\/p>\n —<\/p>\n I decided this would be a good time to adjust the fit too, changing the seams at the shoulders and taking in the very wide neckline a bit. Aaaaand because this is a project, the ”I’ll just adjust this a bit” eventually meant undoing the shoulders, fiddling with the sleeve fit, considering \u00c2\u00a0undoing the entire dress, despair and swearing. Well, it also gave me a chance to redo some old seams!<\/p>\n In this picture I’m sewing the shoulder seam from the right side. I love this technique! It helps in tricky laces and leaves the seam all nice and even at the top. And the thread doesn’t show as much really when you wear it.<\/p>\n T\u00e4ss\u00e4 auki venytettyn\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy k\u00e4dentien p\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 ommeltu ja nurjalta puolelta ommeltu sauma.<\/p>\n —<\/p>\n Here you can see where the armscye has been sewn from the right side and the more ”conventional” seam.<\/p>\n T\u00e4ss\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy tai ei n\u00e4y muutokset omassa ompelussa. Saumavara on huoliteltu helmapistoilla. Peukalosta yl\u00f6sp\u00e4in n\u00e4kyy helmapistot vm 2003. Ompelulangasta yl\u00f6sp\u00e4in n\u00e4kyy (tai ei) helmapistot vm 2015. Lanka kannattaa vet\u00e4\u00e4 sopivasti tiukalle, niin sauma oikeastaan katoaa ja pellavalanka ei paista k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00f6puolellakaan. Toisaalta, hirve\u00e4n monissa keskiajalta s\u00e4ilyneiss\u00e4 saumanpalasissa ompeluj\u00e4lki muistuttaa paljon enemm\u00e4n tuota huolimattomampaa otetta vuodelta 2003.<\/p>\n —<\/p>\n Here you can see (or not) some changes in how I sew. I’ve felled the seam allowance with hem stitch. Above my thumb you can see hem stitch ca 2003. And from where the thread pokes out you can see (or not) hem stitch ca 2015. Goes to show that pulling the thread just tight enough makes a difference – it can make the seam disappear. The linen thread shows hardly at all. Although, it seems that in many medieval extant pieces the sewing looks a lot more like my more carefree seam ca 2003.<\/p>\n Poistin my\u00f6s silkkisen nauhan kaula-aukon sis\u00e4puolella paljolti samoista syist\u00e4 kuin helmet ja turkiksetkin. Est\u00e4\u00e4kseni kaula-aukkoa venym\u00e4st\u00e4, huolittelin sen uudelleen villalangan avulla. Villalangan ompelu helmapistoilla p\u00e4\u00e4rmeen huolitteluksi on maailman yksinkertaisin pikku juttu, joka toimii ihmeen hyvin. Se pit\u00e4\u00e4 kaula-aukon muodossaan ja n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 kivalta. Tekniikka l\u00f6ytyy my\u00f6s Gr\u00f6nlannin vaatel\u00f6yd\u00f6ist\u00e4, jotka siis ovat t\u00e4m\u00e4nkin mekon yksi l\u00e4hde.<\/p>\n —<\/p>\n I also removed a silk facing from the neckline, for the same reasons I removed the rest off the stuff. To keep the neckline from stretching, I sewed a wool thread to the fold of the seam allowance. Hem stich again. This technique is also found in the Greenland garments and it is the simplest thing – but it works wonders on keeping the neckline in it’s intended shape and looks nice. \u00c2\u00a0See the finished neckline below.<\/p>\n Lopputuloksena lempimekon elinkaaressa alkaa taas uusi vaihe. Mekko on edelleen mukava, k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llinen eik\u00e4 liian fiini. N\u00e4iss\u00e4 (tunnelmallisesti lastenhuoneessa h\u00e4t\u00e4isesti r\u00e4psityiss\u00e4) kuvissa mekko on v\u00e4h\u00e4n rutussa oltuaan talvivaatteiden alla, mutta \u00c2\u00a0kokonaisuudesta saa kuvan. Kuten kuvista n\u00e4kyy, mekko on edelleen hyvin leve\u00e4, mutta yl\u00e4osan istuvuus ja laskeutuvuus (jossa kiiloilla on oma t\u00e4rke\u00e4 osuutensa) vaikuttavat siihen ettei se ole ep\u00e4k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llinen – tai edes niin telttamainen kuin luulisi!<\/p>\n —<\/p>\n The end result \u00c2\u00a0is a new phase in the lifespan of my favourite dress. It’s still comfortable, practical and now also not too fancy. These (hastily snapped in the nursery) pictures show a slightly wrinkly dress after it has been worn under layers of winter clothing, but hopefully you’ll see how it turned out. It is still very wide (as it was always intended to be) but the way the hem folds (because of the gores and how they are set) and the way it fits at the shoulders make it stay put and not be impractical despite the width of the dress. Muokkaan lempimekkoani – paljon kuvia saumoista, mekosta ja ompelutekniikoista.![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/IMG_8676.jpg\")
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\n<\/a>\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0<\/a>\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\nA post in which I adjust my favourite dress – lots of pictures of the dress, seams and some sewing techniques. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":6055,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[49,169,167,168],"class_list":["post-6064","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-neulakko","category-projektit","tag-herjolfsnes","tag-korjaus","tag-uudistaminen","tag-vihrea-mekko"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/IMG_8680.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-1zO","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6064","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6064"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6064\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6080,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6064\/revisions\/6080"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/6055"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6064"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6064"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6064"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}