![\"Sleeves\"](\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_0310.jpg\" "\\"IMG_0310\\"")
<\/a>Hihat on nyt leikattu ja toinen niist\u00e4 on ommeltu kokooon. Kaavamateriaalina toimi ”aistikkaasti” kuvioitu ikivanha lakana. Varsinkin hihan kaava on hyv\u00e4 piirt\u00e4\u00e4 ensin paperille, sovitella ja sitten piirt\u00e4\u00e4 viel\u00e4 uudestaan kankaalle ja sovitella. Vasta sitten kannattaa leikata varsinainen kangas. Silloinkin tulee muistaa ett\u00e4 esimerkiksi villa k\u00e4ytt\u00e4ytyy varsin eri tavoin kuin vanha lakana.<\/p>\n Napitettu mekko tarvitsee huimasti nappeja. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy nappien k\u00e4ynnistetty tuotantolinja: leikattuja villanpaloja ja puolivalmiita muotoiltuja nappeja, valmiina kiinnitett\u00e4v\u00e4ksi mekkoon. Muotoilen kangasnapit viel\u00e4 viimeisen kerran kiinnitysvaiheessa.<\/p>\n Kuva on v\u00e4h\u00e4n sumuinen (testailin itselaukaisijaa), mutta siin\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy mekko t\u00e4m\u00e4n hetken tilassa, ilman nappeja ja hihoja. Materiaalina harmaa villa, vuoritettu hurjalla hieman krapinv\u00e4risell\u00e4 ruosteenpunaisella villalla. Molemmat toimikasta. Harmaa villa on huovutettu tiiviiksi ja paksuksi. Harmaa villa on Naturtuchesta, vuori Matan tekstiilist\u00e4.<\/p>\n Mekon on tarkoitus olla l\u00f6ys\u00e4. Tietenkin se saa n\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n silt\u00e4, ett\u00e4 olisi viimeisill\u00e4\u00e4n raskaana vaikkei ole. Siit\u00e4 tunnistaa hyv\u00e4n keskiaikamekon. ;) Olen kyll\u00e4 tyytyv\u00e4inen siihen, miten kauniisti se laskeutuu huolimatta paksuudestaan.<\/p>\n Jokaisessa projektissa pit\u00e4\u00e4 kokeilla jotain uutta. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 testasin uutta tapaa huolitella kaula-aukko. Yleens\u00e4 varmistan vinoon leikatun p\u00e4\u00e4ntien muodossa pysymisen k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4ntien silkkinauhan avulla. Nyt silkki\u00e4 oli tarjolla pelk\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n valkoisena. Valkoinen nauha olisi kuitenkin ollut turhan n\u00e4kyv\u00e4.<\/p>\n Kokeilin Gr\u00f6nlannin l\u00f6yd\u00f6iss\u00e4 k\u00e4ytetty\u00e4, Woven into the Earth-kirjassa esitelty\u00e4tekniikkaa, jossa reuna k\u00e4\u00e4nnet\u00e4\u00e4n kahdell\u00e4 rivill\u00e4 minimaalisen pieni\u00e4 etupistoja (tunnetaan my\u00f6s termill\u00e4 stab stitch) jotka tehd\u00e4\u00e4n l\u00e4helle k\u00e4\u00e4nnetty\u00e4 reunaa. Ns. raaka reuna viimeistell\u00e4\u00e4n ompelemalla reunaan kiinni villalanka tihein luotospistoin. Parhaiten tekniikka sopii paksuhkolle kankaalle, jolla ei ole taipumusta liestymiseen. Alkuper\u00e4isiss\u00e4 sek\u00e4 ompelulanka ett\u00e4 vahvikelanka ovat villaa, mutta koska k\u00e4sill\u00e4 ei ollut ompeluun soveltuvaa villalankaa, k\u00e4ytin samaa pellavaa jolla olen ommellut koko mekon.<\/p>\n Olin ihan yll\u00e4ttynyt siit\u00e4, miten siisti ja huomaamaton tapa t\u00e4m\u00e4 olikaan. Kuten kuvista n\u00e4kee, lankaa (kanervanv\u00e4rinen) h\u00e4din tuskin huomaa. Etuna on my\u00f6s se, ettei paksua tuplavillaa tarvitse k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00e4\u00e4 kahdesti, vaan yksinkertainen taite riitt\u00e4\u00e4. K\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 n\u00e4kee, miten hyvin se auttaa kaula-aukkoa pit\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n muotonsa.<\/p>\n Olen taas t\u00e4ss\u00e4 projektissa ammentanut aika paljon uutta Woven into the Earthista. Se on kyll\u00e4 kumma kirja. Aina kun tarkistaa jotain yksityiskohtaa, j\u00e4m\u00e4ht\u00e4\u00e4 lukemaan. Ja vaikka sen on lukenut varmaan sadasti, aina l\u00f6ytyy uusia ja kiehtovia juttuja.<\/p>\n ****<\/p>\n Here’s a few glimpses on how the warm dress is progressing. I realised there had been no pictures up here yet, since my camera troubles started just when I started working on this project.<\/p>\n I’d misplaced my sleeve pattern and had to make a new one. I’m glad I did, since this dress needs a different, simpler and looser sleeve. And I love drafting sleeve patterns.<\/p>\n (see pictures of sleeves)<\/p>\n The sleeves have now been cut and the other one has been sewn up. I first drafted the patttern on paper, then transferring it onto a piece of old sheet (with a very groovy pattern) and only then onto the wool, trying the pattern on at each step. Especially with sleeves, which go on arms with lots of movement, it’s important to make a fabric version of the pattern. But it is also worth noting that a cotton sheet and wool behave slightly differently too.<\/p>\n (see button picture)<\/p>\n The dress will button up, so a lot of buttons are required. Here’s a picture of the activated button assembly line:\u00c2\u00a0 some fabric ready to be made into buttons and buttons that are halfway done. I always finish the shaping of the button when attaching it, but these ”baby buttons” do already look like the real thing!<\/p>\n (see picture of the dress without sleeves)<\/p>\n Here is the dress (in a fuzzy picture, I tried out the self-timer on the camera), waiting for sleeves and buttons to be attached. The dress is made with grey wool twill from Naturtuche, the lining is a dark madder red wool twill from Matan tekstiili (a local fabric shop).\u00c2\u00a0 The grey wool is thick and felted, the lining is thinner.<\/p>\n The dress is meant to be loose to fit other warm layers underneath. And like many medieval dresses, it makes you look pregnant, even if you’re not. :) I am, however, very happy with the way it drapes even though it’s very thick. And it’s so warm!<\/p>\n (see neckline pics)<\/p>\n Every project needs something new.\u00c2\u00a0 In this dress, I tried out a new way of finishing necklines. Usually I use a narrow silk band to finish off necklines – it makes a very flat finish and keeps the neckline from stretching. This time, however, I only had access to white silk, which I thought would somehow have been too much of a contrast.<\/p>\n So this time I tested a way of finishing necklines that has been excavated from Greenland: I sewed two rows of tiny stab stitches fairly close to the fold and then attached a simple wool thread to the edge of the turned edge, attaching it with very small and tightly set\u00c2\u00a0 hem stitches.\u00c2\u00a0 The techinque is most suitable for slightly thicker wool with little tendency to fray. The Greenland garments had been stitched with a specially made woolen sewing thread. I didn’t have wool suitable for sewing, so I used the linen thread I had used for sewing the dress.<\/p>\n I was happily surprised of how neatly the neckline turned out.\u00c2\u00a0 As you can see in the pictures, the thread is hardly visible, it disappears into the seam. It gives a way of finishing the neckline with turning it over just once, which is useful when working with thick wool. After the dress gets some wear, we’ll see how well the thread keeps the neckline in its shape.<\/p>\n Working with this\u00c2\u00a0 project, I’ve been reading Woven into the Earth quite a bit. It’s a wonderfully interesting book. I must have read it tens of times, but every time I look to it for some info, I seem to find something new and find myself getting stuck reading it.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" T\u00e4ss\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n vilauksia siit\u00e4, miten l\u00e4mmin mekko edistyy. Siit\u00e4 ei t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 Neulakossa olekaan ollut kuvia, sill\u00e4 kameraongelmat alkoivat samaan aikaan kuin t\u00e4m\u00e4 projekti. Olen laittanut valmiin hyv\u00e4n hihan kaavan jonnekin varmaan talteen sen j\u00e4lkeen kun opetin Hollolassa hihan kaavoittamista. Ei muuta kuin uutta tekem\u00e4\u00e4n. L\u00e4mmin mekko tarvitsikin oikeastaan aivan toisenlaisen, paljon l\u00f6ysemm\u00e4n hihan kuin mit\u00e4 … <\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/a>