{"id":348,"date":"2009-10-04T18:07:21","date_gmt":"2009-10-04T15:07:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=348"},"modified":"2009-10-04T18:07:21","modified_gmt":"2009-10-04T15:07:21","slug":"kuumaa-kamaa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=348","title":{"rendered":"Kuumaa kamaa"},"content":{"rendered":"

Projektina tyls\u00e4, mutta eritt\u00e4in tarpeellinen alusmekko on vihdoin valmis. Nyt alusmekkoja on taas kaksi, mik\u00e4 on varsinkin pidempien leirien kannalta todella hyv\u00e4 juttu.
\nHomma oli sin\u00e4ns\u00e4 hyvin yksinkertainen: keskiedess\u00e4 ja keskitakana kiilat, hihat suoraviivaisesti alasp\u00e4in kapenevat, hihoissa ei ihmeempi\u00e4 istutuksia tms.\u00c2\u00a0 Kaula-aukko on nauhalla vahvistettu. Haasteellisinta oli survoa mekko kasaan tukevasta pellavasta, jota oli kaiken lis\u00e4ksi melko v\u00e4h\u00e4n. Noudatin pyh\u00e4n Louisin pellavapaidan<\/a> logiikkaa – ei olkasaumaa, ei sivukiiloja, kiilat leikataan ylij\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4paloista.
\nSormet olivat kovilla erityisesti hulpioreunojen kanssa, mutta p\u00e4\u00e4tin sen takia v\u00e4h\u00e4n irroitella tavallisest\u00e4 k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6st\u00e4 ja tein hulpioreunojen kohdatessa hihoihin p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4iset saumat (englanniksi overlapping seam).<\/p>\n

Mekon varsinainen juju on siin\u00e4, ett\u00e4 se on istutettu niin tukevasti, ett\u00e4 voi olla mukavasti rintaliivitt\u00e4, mutta silhuetti on silti oikeanlainen. Toinen tapa sen eritt\u00e4in tarpeellisen tuen saamiseksi on villamekon istuttaminen riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n pinke\u00e4ksi. Itse olen kuitenkin tyk\u00e4nnyt hoitaa homman jo alusmekossa. Pellava on tukevaa ja toisaalta alusmekkoa on helpompi muokata, mik\u00e4li tulee tarvetta kirist\u00e4\u00e4 istuvuutta tms.<\/p>\n

Keskiajalla pellavainen aluspaita oli ylellisyys, johon k\u00f6yhimmill\u00e4 ei ollut varaa. Kuten alusvaatteet nytkin, alusmekko oli\u00c2\u00a0 my\u00f6s intiimi vaatekappale, jossa ei liesuttu pitkin kyli\u00e4. Siksi laitan kuvat uudesta alusmekosta h\u00e4veli\u00e4\u00e4sti linkin taakse, t\u00e4nne<\/a> ja t\u00e4nne<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Ja nyt saan palkinnoksi kirjoa myssy\u00e4ni. Jes.
\n****<\/p>\n

Hot stuff<\/strong><\/p>\n

The linen underdress is finished (underdress? smock? chemise? You know what I mean, right?). Underdresses are a bit boring to make but ever so necessary.<\/p>\n

All in all, this project was very simple. Gores are set in the front and back, the sleeves are fairly straightforward and simple. The neckline has been reinforced with silk. The biggest challenges were in having a very sparse amounto fo fabric and in putting the dress together. The linen was very sturdy, so sewing got a bit painful. But I also had a good time using overlapping seam (which I’ve never used on an undersdress before) on places where the sturdy edges of the difficult linen meet.<\/p>\n

I used the basic layout of the linen tunic of st. Louis<\/a>; no shoulder seams, no side gores and using the cutoffs from the pattern for sleeve and gore material.<\/p>\n

The underdress in wonderfully supportive, so no other undewear (bra or such) is required and the silhouette is as it should be. Others like to fit their cotes\/dresses so tightly that they give support. I prefer using the underdress for support, because I find that it is much easier to adjust the underdress (in case of weight loss etc.) and linen is sturdier than a lot of wools.<\/p>\n

In the middle ages linen underdresses were something that not everyone could afford. They were also very private and intimate items of clothing, just as underwear is today. So I’ll post the pictures of my new underdress behind links here <\/a>and here<\/a>.
\nAnd now I’m off to embroider one of my caps, a prize I get for being so good and finishing the underdress.\u00c2\u00a0
\n<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Projektina tyls\u00e4, mutta eritt\u00e4in tarpeellinen alusmekko on vihdoin valmis. Nyt alusmekkoja on taas kaksi, mik\u00e4 on varsinkin pidempien leirien kannalta todella hyv\u00e4 juttu. Homma oli sin\u00e4ns\u00e4 hyvin yksinkertainen: keskiedess\u00e4 ja keskitakana kiilat, hihat suoraviivaisesti alasp\u00e4in kapenevat, hihoissa ei ihmeempi\u00e4 istutuksia tms.\u00c2\u00a0 Kaula-aukko on nauhalla vahvistettu. Haasteellisinta oli survoa mekko kasaan tukevasta pellavasta, jota oli kaiken … <\/p>\n

Jatka lukemista ”Kuumaa kamaa”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[9,3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-348","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-kuvat","category-projektit"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-5C","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/348","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=348"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/348\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=348"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=348"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=348"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}