{"id":33901,"date":"2017-06-22T13:39:38","date_gmt":"2017-06-22T10:39:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=33901"},"modified":"2017-06-22T13:44:19","modified_gmt":"2017-06-22T10:44:19","slug":"herjolfsnes-haastemekko-new-gown-for-the-herjolfsnes-challenge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=33901","title":{"rendered":"Herjolfsnes-haastemekko \/ New gown for the Herjolfsnes challenge"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Ihana viikko Middelaldercentretiss\u00e4 on takana ja my\u00f6s t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa mukana oli uusi mekko. Se on tehty Herjolfsnes – haasteeseen (ja tarpeeseen!) ja siit\u00e4 tuli oikein kiva. Onnistuin viimein tekem\u00e4\u00e4n vaatimattoman ja yksinkertaisen perusmekon. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa ei tullut ep\u00e4huomiossa kirkkaanpunaista mekkoa laahuksella<\/a>. T\u00e4mm\u00f6inen luonnonv\u00e4rinen ja vaatimaton mekko on k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llinen, monik\u00e4ytt\u00f6inen ja sellainen jota olen kauan kaipaillut.  <\/p>\n

Mekko on periaatteessa Herjolfsnesin D10581 (Vanha numero 39), kolmella muutoksella. Halusin pitk\u00e4t hihat, koska en halunnut t\u00e4st\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekkoa. Sopiva hiha l\u00f6ytyi mekosta 38.  Mekko on alkuper\u00e4ist\u00e4 pidempi (v\u00e4h\u00e4n ylipitk\u00e4) k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6n- ja makusyist\u00e4. Kaula-aukkoon en tehnyt pient\u00e4 lovea ny\u00f6rinreikineen – tyyli- ja kangassyist\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Kankaana oli Naturtuchen harmaa ohuehko villa, jonka viimeistelyss\u00e4 villaa on venytetty \u00e4\u00e4rimm\u00e4isen pinke\u00e4ksi. Kangas on miellytt\u00e4v\u00e4, mutta joissain kohdissa h\u00e4mment\u00e4v\u00e4n vino. Siis niin, ett\u00e4 lankasuorakin on vino. Vinouden kanssa onnistui ommellessa s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n niin ettei se haitannut, mutta kaula-aukon osalta pelk\u00e4sin, ett\u00e4 se pieni viilto menisi kuitenkin jotenkin itsest\u00e4\u00e4n vinoon.  <\/p>\n

Jokaisessa mekkoprojektissa oppii uutta. Niin t\u00e4ss\u00e4kin. Ompelemisessa meni kauemmin kuin miss\u00e4\u00e4n mekossa aiemmin, koska iso osa saumoista on ommeltu oikealta puolelta. Se on hitaampaa kuin mekon ompelelminen kokoon nurjalta puolelta etupistoilla. Etuna kuitenkin on mukavan n\u00e4kym\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4t ja litte\u00e4t saumat sek\u00e4 mainio hallinnan tunne tarkkutta vaativissa kohdissa. Valitsin t\u00e4m\u00e4n ompelutekniikan siksi, ett\u00e4 my\u00f6s alkuper\u00e4isten mekkojen sanotaan olevan ommeltu oikealta puolelta.<\/p>\n

Lis\u00e4ksi huolittelin osan saumoista itse kehr\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4ni langalla (!! Merkitt\u00e4v\u00e4 askel henkil\u00f6lle joka on aiemmin tunnettu my\u00f6s maailman surkeimpana kehr\u00e4\u00e4j\u00e4n\u00e4). Saumoissa on yhteens\u00e4 nelj\u00e4\u00e4 erilaista villaompelulankaa. Vaihdoin lankaa ompeluprosessin aikana aina kuin l\u00f6ysin paremman, mutta ei langan vaihtelu hirve\u00e4sti n\u00e4y, niin fiksuja ovat n\u00e4m\u00e4 saumat! Villalangalla ompelu on aika mukavaa. Pellavalankaan verrattuna saumoista tulee jotenkin pehme\u00e4mm\u00e4t ja ne uppoavat kankaaseen. <\/p>\n

Mukava uutuus oli my\u00f6s py\u00f6re\u00e4k\u00e4rkinen ”kalanpyrst\u00f6kiila” joka paitsi n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 kivalle, voi osoittautua k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 v\u00e4hemm\u00e4n herk\u00e4sti k\u00e4rjest\u00e4 repe\u00e4v\u00e4ksi. Aiemmin olen versioinut niit\u00e4 gr\u00f6nlantilaisia mekkoja, joissa sit\u00e4 ei ole.<\/p>\n

Alla lis\u00e4\u00e4 kuvia ja huomioita! <\/p>\n

*************** ENGLISH************<\/p>\n

We had a lovely week at Middelaldercentret and also this year it marked the debut of a new dress. This was my finally finished dress for the Herjolsnes-challenge. And a dress that I really needed! I finally made a modest and simple basic everyday dress. This time my attempts at a working dress  didn’t end up producing a bright, luxuriously red dress <\/a>with a train. I’m happy with the result – it’s really practical and something you can use pretty much with any dress and doing everything. <\/p>\n

The dress is basically a Herjolfsnes D10581 (Old number 39), with three major alterations. I wanted long sleeves, because I wasnted to use this not as an overdress but as a middle layer (over shift, under the overdress). A suitable sleeve was found in dress 38. The dress is longer than the original for practical and style reasons. I also left out the little notch in the neckline due to style and fabric-related reasons. <\/p>\n

The fabric I used was Naturtuchen’s natural gray wool, which has somehow been really really stretched when it has been finished. It’s hard to explain, really, but this stretch in the fabric makes it …um…. sort of….wonky. When I cut it completely straight on the grain it was still somehow diagonal.  I managed to work around this characteristic when I was sewing it, but was too afraid to include the notch in the neckline. I was sure that would have been pushing my luck and I would have ended up with a crooked notch in front and center of the dress. <\/p>\n

Every project teaches me something new. So did this one! Sewing this dress took longer than any other because most of the seams are sewn from the right side. It is much slower than sewing the dress with running stitches on the inside of the dress. However, the advantage is the invisible and flat seams, as well as an excellent sense of control when sewing, especially in tricky places like on gores and the sleeves. I went with this technique because the original dresses are also said to be sewn like this.<\/p>\n

Also, I finished some of the seams using yarn I had spun myself (!!! a huge step for someone formerly known as the worst spinster in the world) There  is a total of four different wool yarns that I used when I was sewing the dress. I changed the thread during the sewing process every time I found a better one. But because the seams are so clever, the thread (and where I change it) hardly shows.  I usually sew with linen thread so I’m still experimenting with wools to find my favourite kind. Sewing with wool Herjolfsnes-style is pretty nice. Compared to linen, the seams are softer and they blend into the fabric (and are much harder to undo if something has gone wrong.).<\/p>\n

A nice novelty was also a round-pointed ”fishtail” gore that not only looks neat and makes for an interesting detail, but I think the shape may be less sensitive tears at the top of the gore. This is a detail on the Greenland dresses I haven’t recreated before, because it hasn’t been on the ones I have worked on before. <\/p>\n

Scroll down for more pictures and  observations! (English in Italic<\/em>)<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Muistin mekon kuvaamisen vasta viimeisen\u00e4 p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4, joten t\u00e4ss\u00e4 vaiheessa mekossa n\u00e4kyy kurttuina vy\u00f6n painauma. Sateisina p\u00e4ivin\u00e4 varjelin helmaa nostamalla sen vy\u00f6lle makkaraksi. Kuten kuvasta n\u00e4kyy, mekko ei ole varsinaisesti istuva, varsinkaan vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lt\u00e4, mutta yl\u00e4osa on sen verran napakka ett\u00e4 se pysyy paikoillaan. Kankaan takia siit\u00e4 tuli oikeastaan yll\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4nkin napakka, sill\u00e4 kangas jousti villatoimikkaaksi tosi v\u00e4h\u00e4n. <\/p>\n

I remembered that I wanted pictures for this post at the very last day of the week – after a week of wearing the dress hiked up onto a roll with my belt on rainy days. The wrinkles at my waist show where the hem has been hiked up. As you can see in this picture, the dress is not really fitted – especially not at the waist. But the top part is snug enough to keep it well in place. And because the fabric had very little stretch for a wool twill, it became a bit more snug than even intended! <\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Sama takaap\u00e4in. Vy\u00f6n kanssa (ylin kuva) mekko on ihan toisen n\u00e4k\u00f6inen, kiva k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 sek\u00e4 ilman ett\u00e4 vy\u00f6n kanssa. <\/p>\n

The back. With a belt (topmosti picture) the dress looks quite different, I like wearing it both with and without a belt. <\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tein tai oikeastaan j\u00e4tin ensimm\u00e4ist\u00e4 kertaa hihoihin halkiot, kuten monissa alkuper\u00e4isiss\u00e4 mekoissa. Ne vaativat v\u00e4h\u00e4n totuttelua, mutta olivat aika n\u00e4pp\u00e4r\u00e4t hihat piti saada t\u00f6iden tielt\u00e4 yl\u00f6s. N\u00e4m\u00e4 halkiot ovat vain noin 12-senttiset, mutta Herjolfsnesin l\u00f6yd\u00f6st\u00e4 l\u00f6ytyy hihoja joissa on jopa 18 cm halkiot, eik\u00e4 niiss\u00e4 n\u00e4y j\u00e4lki\u00e4 kiinnityksest\u00e4. Olisi kiva tiet\u00e4\u00e4, miten niiden kanssa toimittiin.  <\/p>\n

Quite a lot of the Herjolfsnes garments have slits on the sleeves, but this was the forst time I’ve recreated them. Wearing them required a little getting used to, but they are very practical when you need to get the sleeves out of the way when working. They are about 12 cm’s so not even the deepest sleeve slits in the Greenland material. So far the research hasn’t shown evidence of them being closed up for wear. It would be interesting to know how they wore them<\/em>. <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

T\u00e4ss\u00e4 ei ole koristelua, vaan saumanvara on huoliteltu ompelemalla lanka helmapistoilla saumavaran reunaan. <\/p>\n

This is not an ornament but just seam finishing by stitching a thread to the folded over hem. I only had white thread when (panic)sewing these last touches. <\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

T\u00e4ss\u00e4 mekko tositoimissa, p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekon (jonka malli my\u00f6s Herjolfsnesist\u00e4), hupun ja essun kanssa, helma vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle rullattuna. Kamalan k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llinen asu!<\/p>\n

This how I mostly wore it – under an overdress (the pattern for that one is also from Herjolfsnes) a hood (a London hood) and an apron, hems lifted onto a roll on my belt. It’s comfy and practical! <\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

L\u00e4mpim\u00e4mpin\u00e4 p\u00e4ivin\u00e4 k\u00e4ytin sit\u00e4 ilman p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekkoa – niinkuin t\u00e4ss\u00e4 kun pidin pellavaompelimoa juuri maalatussa Suutarin talossa. <\/p>\n

When it was warmer I skipped the overdress, like on this day when I had my linen seamstress’s shop open in the newly painted house! <\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Onnistuin viimein tekem\u00e4\u00e4n vaatimattoman ja yksinkertaisen perusmekon. T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa ei tullut ep\u00e4huomiossa kirkkaanpunaista mekkoa laahuksella. T\u00e4mm\u00f6inen luonnonv\u00e4rinen ja vaatimaton mekko on k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llinen, monik\u00e4ytt\u00f6inen ja sellainen jota olen kauan kaipaillut. \u00c2\u00a0Mekko on periaatteessa Herjolfsnesin D10581. <\/p>\n

This is my finally finished dress for the Herjolsnes-challenge. I finally managged a modest and simple basic everyday dress. I’m happy with the result – it’s really practical and something you can use pretty much with any dress and doing everything.\u00c2\u00a0The dress is based on Herjolfsnes D10581.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":33896,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[9,2,3],"tags":[49,181,79,43,170],"class_list":["post-33901","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kuvat","category-neulakko","category-projektit","tag-herjolfsnes","tag-herjolfsneschallenge","tag-iloinen-joutsen","tag-mekko","tag-middelaldercentret"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/IMG_9822-e1497614096547.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-8ON","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33901","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=33901"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33901\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":34072,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33901\/revisions\/34072"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/33896"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=33901"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=33901"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=33901"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}