{"id":2147,"date":"2014-11-02T13:43:51","date_gmt":"2014-11-02T11:43:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=2147"},"modified":"2014-11-11T13:47:40","modified_gmt":"2014-11-11T11:47:40","slug":"keskiajan-ompeluvalineet-my-medieval-sewing-kit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=2147","title":{"rendered":"Keskiajan ompeluv\u00e4lineet \/ My medieval sewing kit"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"IMG_8047.JPG\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

1. Pellavalankaa puurullilla \/ Linen thread on wooden reels<\/h4>\n

Eripaksuisia valkoisia ja luonnonv\u00e4risi\u00e4 pellavalankoja puisilla rullilla. Valkoista ohutta l\u00e4hinn\u00e4 huntujen ompeluun, luonnonv\u00e4rist\u00e4 kaikkeen muuhun. V\u00e4rj\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4t\u00f6n pellavalanka oli keskiajalla yleisin ompelulanka ja se onkin ihan mainiota. Tosin on vaikea luopua siit\u00e4 modernista pinttym\u00e4st\u00e4, ett\u00e4 kankaan ja langan pit\u00e4isi olla saman v\u00e4rist\u00e4. \u00c2\u00a0Mutta se ei haittaa: suurin osa ompelupistoista on semmoisia, ettei luonnonv\u00e4rinen lanka juuri n\u00e4y p\u00e4\u00e4llep\u00e4in.<\/p>\n

Linen thread, the most common medieval sewing thread, in different thicknesses and in white and natural. I use the white mainly for veils and the natural for almost everything else. It does take a while to lose the modern notion of thread and fabric always having to match – but since most seams are so clever that the sewing thread hardly shows, it just really is not an issue even.<\/em><\/p>\n

2. Sekalaisia villa- ja silkkilankoja \/ Miscellaneous silk and wool threads<\/h4>\n

Ompelurasiassa py\u00f6rii my\u00f6s villa- ja silkkikeri\u00e4, joita k\u00e4yt\u00e4n vaatteiden viimeistelyyn: ny\u00f6reihin ja semmoiseen. Luksus-silkkilanka on ly\u00f6m\u00e4t\u00f6nt\u00e4 napinl\u00e4viss\u00e4.<\/p>\n

I always have some random wool and silk in my sewing box. I use them on the finishing touches: cords and such. And there is nothing better than the luxury silk for buttonholes.<\/em><\/p>\n

3. Neulakot \/ Needle cases<\/h4>\n

Neulakko on neulojen koti. Nahkaisessa ja tinaisessa neulakossa s\u00e4ilyt\u00e4n niit\u00e4 neuloja, jotka eiv\u00e4t ole k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4. Neulakoiden malli on Lontoost\u00e4 per\u00e4isin.<\/p>\n

The needle case: where the needles live. In my leather and pewter cases, I store the needles I’m not using at the moment. Both needle cases are made after originals from London.<\/em><\/p>\n

4. Ompelu- ja nuppineuloja \/ Sewing needles and pins<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Ehk\u00e4 kaikista t\u00e4rkein v\u00e4lineist\u00f6 on t\u00e4ss\u00e4. Hyvi\u00e4 ja oikeasti ompeluun soveltuvia reproduktioneuloja on aika vaikea l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4. Ostan niit\u00e4 melkein aina jossain n\u00e4kiess\u00e4ni, mutta mieluisia on vaikea l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4. Hyv\u00e4 neula ei saisi taipua \u00e4lytt\u00f6m\u00e4sti ommellessa ja sen neulansilm\u00e4n pit\u00e4isi olla niin hyvin hiottu, ettei se tartu lankaan. Lis\u00e4ksi neulan olisi hyv\u00e4 olla sopivan ter\u00e4v\u00e4, vaikka sit\u00e4 voikin itse my\u00f6s s\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4. (ks kohta 5).<\/p>\n

Ompelunuppineulat ovat aika samanlaisia kuin huntuneulat, mutta koska pid\u00e4n eniten aika pitkist\u00e4 huntuneuloista, ompelua varten olen hankkinut lyhyit\u00e4 nuppineuloja. Nuppineuloja ei tarvitse niin huisia m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4\u00e4 kuin mit\u00e4 on modernissa neularasiassa (mik\u00e4 on kappalehintaan n\u00e4hden onni), sill\u00e4 opettelemalla p\u00e4\u00e4see k\u00e4sinommellessa pahimmasta nuppineulariippuvaisuudesta eroon. En ole l\u00f6yt\u00e4nyt yht\u00e4\u00e4n oikea-aikaista esimerkki\u00e4 neulatyynyist\u00e4, joten k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 olevat neulat ovat esill\u00e4 villapalassa. \u00c2\u00a0Hyvin tuntuvat viihtyv\u00e4n.<\/p>\n

Perhaps the most important tools. Good and actually useful reproduction sewing needles are notoriously hard to find. I buy some almost everytime I find them somewhere – but still I have a hard time finding ones I like. In my opinion, a good needle shouldn’t bend a lot (excessively anyway) when sewing and the eye should be finished well enough so that it doesn’t snag the thread. And of course it should be suitably sharp, although you can also do some sharpening yourself (see 5.)<\/em><\/p>\n

My sewing pins are like my veil pins, only shorter. A good thing is (considering the price) that you don’t need as many pins in medieval hand sewing as you do in modern machine sewing. I try to wean myself off my habit of excessive pinning – and it works.<\/em><\/p>\n

I haven’t found a late 14th depiction of a needle cushion, so I keep the needles I am using at the moment in a piece of wool fabric. It works out ok.<\/em><\/p>\n

5. Hiomakivi \/ Whetstone<\/h4>\n

Hiomakivi neulojen teroitusta tai tarvittaessa tylsytt\u00e4mist\u00e4 varten.<\/p>\n

A whetstone for sharpening or when necessary for un-sharpening (probably not a real word) my needles.<\/em><\/p>\n

6. Neulakinnasneula \/ Awl or needle binding needle<\/h4>\n

Neulakinnasneula ja metallinen kirjoitustikku (ei kuvassa) ovat mainioita ty\u00f6v\u00e4lineit\u00e4 ny\u00f6rinreikien venyttelyyn.<\/p>\n

Awls – I use a wooden needle binding needle or my metal stylus or my bone awl (not pictured) for lots of things, but most importantly to stretch out lacing holes.<\/em><\/p>\n

7. Ompeluvahaa<\/h4>\n

Ompeluvaha on ehdoton kaveri pellavalangalla ompeluun – tosin joskus k\u00e4yt\u00e4n sit\u00e4 silkinkin kanssa. Vaha auttaa lankaa olemaan menem\u00e4tt\u00e4 kierteelle ja solmuun. Vaha on enimm\u00e4kseen mehil\u00e4isvahaa.<\/p>\n

Sewing wax – an important sidekick for linen thread (I also use it on silk sometimes). The wax keeps the thread from rolling up into itself and knotting up. My sewing wax is beeswax and also apparently has some secret ingredients.<\/em><\/p>\n

8. \u00c2\u00a0Pikkusakset\/ Snips<\/h4>\n

N\u00e4ill\u00e4 saksilla ei leikata kangasta vaan lankaa. Ter\u00e4v\u00e4k\u00e4rkisill\u00e4 pikkukeritsimill\u00e4 kuvan alareunassa voi my\u00f6s purkaa ep\u00e4onnistuneita ompeluksia ja leikell\u00e4 napinl\u00e4pi\u00e4.<\/p>\n

These little snips are not for tailoring but for cutting threads. The pointy ones that look like little shears I use also for ripping apart seams and cutting button holes.<\/em><\/p>\n

9. Sormustin \/ Thimble<\/h4>\n

En oikeastaan ikin\u00e4 k\u00e4yt\u00e4 sormustinta (vaan ompelen rei\u00e4n sormeeni), mutta kun k\u00e4yt\u00e4n, se on t\u00e4m\u00e4 avok\u00e4rkinen keskiaikaisen sormustimen kopio.<\/p>\n

I don’t usually use a thimble (instead, I frequently sew a hole into my finger), but when I do use one, it is this open replica of a medieval thimble.<\/em><\/p>\n

10. Pikkuinen silityskivi \/ Small seam smoother<\/h4>\n

Gr\u00f6nlannin Herjolfsnesist\u00e4 oli l\u00f6ydetty t\u00e4mm\u00f6isi\u00e4 pieni\u00e4 saumansilityskivi\u00e4. Seh\u00e4n toimii! Varsinkin pellavaa ommellessa kivell\u00e4 saa aseteltua saumat todella litteiksi jo ommellessa.<\/p>\n

Seam smoother stones have been found from norse Greenland – and they are actually really handy! Especially when sewing linen, a small stone like this lets you make crisp folds and flat seams while sewing.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kymmenen t\u00e4rkeint\u00e4 ompeluv\u00e4linett\u00e4 keskiajan ompelurasiassa – mukana mm. hiomakivi ja saumansilitt\u00e4j\u00e4. \/ The top 10 sewing supplies in my medieval sewing kit, including the seam smoother and the whetstone. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2],"tags":[126],"class_list":["post-2147","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-neulakko","tag-ompeluvalineet"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-yD","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2147","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2147"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2147\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2159,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2147\/revisions\/2159"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2147"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2147"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2147"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}