{"id":21024,"date":"2016-06-23T21:49:37","date_gmt":"2016-06-23T18:49:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=21024"},"modified":"2016-06-23T22:35:03","modified_gmt":"2016-06-23T19:35:03","slug":"p-birgitan-mekko-dress-of-st-birgittabridget","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=21024","title":{"rendered":"P. Birgitan mekko \/ Dress of St. Birgitta\/Bridget"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4368.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21021 aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4379.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"559\" height=\"745\" srcset=\"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4379.jpg 2448w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4379-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4379-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 559px) 100vw, 559px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>1970-luvulla Ruotsissa tehtiin erikoinen havainto, kun pyh\u00e4n Brigitan reliikkej\u00e4 tutkittiin n\u00e4yttely\u00e4 varten*). Pyhimyksen viitta osoittautui kierr\u00e4tetyksi villamekoksi. Mekko oli leikattu vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n tienoilta ja helma muokattu viitaksi. Tarkempi tutkimus osoitti, ett\u00e4 uutena mekko oli ollut varsin hieno &#8211; sen sininen villa oli laadukasta ja arvokasta. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 mekossa on my\u00f6s yksi parhaiten s\u00e4ilyneist\u00e4 taskuaukoista.<\/p>\n<p>Birgitan mekon tarina on kiehtonut minua vuositolkulla. Talvella laskeskellessani kangaskaappini kankaiden lankatiheytt\u00e4 (k\u00f6h k\u00f6h) huomasin ett\u00e4 siell\u00e4 py\u00f6ri kangas jossa on about sama tiheys kuin Birgitan mekossa &#8211; ja siit\u00e4 ajatus sitten l\u00e4hti. Tein viimein mekon, jota olin py\u00f6ritellyt mieless\u00e4ni niin kauan.<\/p>\n<p>Paniikkiompeluksi se lopulta meni, mutta sain mekon k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/mervi.pasanen.3\/media_set?set=a.10153798747637620.1073741858.598197619&amp;type=3\">Iloisen Joutsenen Middelaldercentret- viikoksi.<\/a> Mekko on ihan \u00e4lytt\u00f6m\u00e4n kiva! K\u00e4ytin sit\u00e4 koko viikon mm. ruokkiessani possuja ja h\u00e4tyytelless\u00e4ni ankkoja. Paistoin piiraita, nukuin y\u00f6ni ja juoksin heittokoneen py\u00f6r\u00e4ss\u00e4 se p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4. Mekko ei j\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt pulaan!<\/p>\n<p>T\u00e4ss\u00e4 mekosta lyhyesti:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Mekko on no waste- mekko, sill\u00e4 se leikataan niin fiksusti, ett\u00e4 siit\u00e4 ei j\u00e4\u00e4 MIT\u00c3\u201e\u00c3\u201eN yli.<\/li>\n<li>Sen ajoitus ei ole ihan varma, mutta ehk\u00e4 1330-1350 lukujen kieppeill\u00e4? Malliltaan se on melko l\u00f6ys\u00e4 ja kauniisti laskeutuva ja sik\u00e4li vastaa 1300-luvun alkupuolen muotia.<\/li>\n<li>Koska mekon yl\u00e4osa ei ole s\u00e4ilynyt, sai sen suunnittelussa olla luova ja ammentaa muista samanaikaisista l\u00e4hteist\u00e4. Halusin v\u00e4h\u00e4n &#8221;vanhanaikaiset&#8221; hihat ja p\u00e4\u00e4dyin Bockstenin tunikan hihoihin. Kaula-aukon malli l\u00f6ytyi samasta l\u00f6yd\u00f6st\u00e4 &#8211; Bockstenin miehen jalkar\u00e4tti on leikattu mekosta jossa oli oikeastaan kivan muodikas kaula-aukko, jolla sain mekon ilmett\u00e4 hivutettua l\u00e4hemm\u00e4s 1300-luvun puoliv\u00e4li\u00e4. Ja kaikki sopivasti Ruotsista.<\/li>\n<li>Mekko olisi aika kiva my\u00f6s ilman hihoja.<\/li>\n<li>Alkuper\u00e4isen mekon saumat ovat silkkinauhojen peitossa ja j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t arvoitukseksi, joten t\u00e4ss\u00e4 mekossa on ihan keskiajan perustekniikoilla ja pellavalangalla ommellut saumat.<\/li>\n<li>Ne mahtavat taskuaukot puuttuvat, koska mietin viel\u00e4 laittaisinko niit\u00e4 t\u00e4h\u00e4n mekkoon jota kuitenkin k\u00e4yt\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4asiassa ns. keskikerroksen mekkona, en p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekkona.<\/li>\n<li>Helmaa tuli se 4,5m ja mekon per\u00e4\u00e4n syntyi laahus kuin itsest\u00e4\u00e4n. Vy\u00f6n avulla sai kuitenkin helmaa nosteltua niin, ett\u00e4 suurin osa ankankikkareista j\u00e4i Tanskaan eik\u00e4 tullut helmoissa kotiin.<\/li>\n<li>Viitassa\/Mekossa on huisi m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 saumoja, tein omani uskollisena vaatteen ns. merkitseville saumoille, kaikkea palastelua en tehnyt (koska kangasta riitti) &#8211; aion kirjoittaa mekon nerokkaasta kaavasta joskus lis\u00e4\u00e4.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>******** ENGLISH *****<\/p>\n<p>A very interesting discovery was made in Sweden in the 1970&#8217;s, when some of the relics of St. Birgitta of Sweden were looked into to be put on display *). A mantle attributed to the saint turned out to be a repurposed dress. The dress was cut off at around the waist and made into a cloak. Closer research into the materials showed that the dress had been a rather fine one when new, the blue fabric was of a high quality wool. The dress also has other interesting details, among them one of the most well preserved fitchets, aka pocket slits.<\/p>\n<p>This story of the recycled dress and it&#8217;s discovery has fascinated me for years. In the winter I did a small fabric inventory and \u00c2\u00a0as I was looking into the thread counts of my wools (yes I know I am a gigantic geek) I realised I had some wool with just about the right thread count and that&#8217;s what got this project going. I finally made the dress I had been thinking of for so long.<\/p>\n<p>In the end it turned into manic panic sewing mode again, but I did finish the dress in time for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/mervi.pasanen.3\/media_set?set=a.10153798747637620.1073741858.598197619&amp;type=3\">Merry Swan&#8217;s week at Middelalderentret.<\/a> And it turned out to be super nice! I used it all week &#8211; when feeding the piglets and shooing the ducks, when sleeping, baking pies in the huge oven and while running in the trebuchet wheel. It was good for all that and more!<\/p>\n<p>A couple of key observations about the dress:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The pattern is a glorious example of medieval zero waste- tailoring technique. There were no offcuts from the dress (excluding the sleeves)<\/li>\n<li>The dating isn&#8217;t precise, but perhaps around 1330&#8217;s-1350&#8217;s? It is a rather loose fit with a lovely drape in the wide hem, which goes along the fashion of the early 14th century.<\/li>\n<li>Because the upper part of the dress is long gone, there wasa certain amount of creative liberty in making it. I decided to look into contemporary things. I wanted the sleeves to be a bit old fashioned &#8211; so the right ones for me came from the Bocksten Man&#8217;s tunic. Also the neckline comes from the same find &#8211; one of the foot rags of the Bocksten man was a recycled tunic\/dress neckline &#8211; from a more fashionable garment that the tunic he was wearing. It seemed just right for this dress &#8211; and it sort of hitches the look a little closer to the mid 14th century. And it is all from Sweden.<\/li>\n<li>The dress would be quite nice also without sleeves.<\/li>\n<li>The seams in the original are covered by silk strips that leave them a mystery so this one has just very regular medieval seams sewn in linen.<\/li>\n<li>The wonderful fitchets are still missing because I&#8217;m contemplating if I should make them on this dress which is a more of a mid-layer dress, after all.<\/li>\n<li>The hem is a huge 4,5 meters in circumference and it has a little train which happened very naturally when making it. Thankfully it is still manageable with a belt (hiked up) so that the duck droppings did not follow me home from Denmark.<\/li>\n<li>The original cloak\/mantle has a lot more seams, because in this dress I stayed true to the pattern and the actual seams but I did not recreate all the piecing in the orginal (I had fabric, I did not need to). More about that later when I hopefully will write more about the making of this dress.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4368.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21023 aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4368.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"736\" height=\"552\" srcset=\"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4368.jpg 3264w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4368-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4368-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4368-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 736px) 100vw, 736px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_21031\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21031\" style=\"width: 374px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4419.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21031 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4419.jpg\" width=\"374\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4419.jpg 374w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4419-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 374px) 100vw, 374px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21031\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heittokone: TJEU \/ Was not kidding about the Trebuchet, although this picture is posed :D<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_21032\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21032\" style=\"width: 707px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4344.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21032\" src=\"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4344.jpg\" width=\"707\" height=\"530\" srcset=\"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4344.jpg 3264w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4344-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4344-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4344-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 707px) 100vw, 707px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21032\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Odottamassa piirakoiden kypsymist\u00e4 &#8211; ja samalla v\u00e4h\u00e4n k\u00e4ss\u00e4\u00e4. Waiting for the pies to be done &#8211; with some crafts.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>*)\u00c2\u00a0Birgittareliker inl\u00c3\u00a5nade till Historiska museets utst\u00e4llning &#8221;Birgitta och det Heliga landet&#8221;, 30 november 1973-17 februari 1974 \/\u00c2\u00a0Aron Andersson och Anne Marie Franz\u00c3\u00a9n,\u00c2\u00a0Stockholm : Almqvist &amp; Wiksell, 1975<\/p>\n<dl class=\"fullpostlista\">\n<dd>\n<h6><\/h6>\n<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<dl class=\"fullpostlista\">\n<dt><\/dt>\n<dt>\n<h6><\/h6>\n<\/dt>\n<\/dl>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>1970-luvulla Ruotsissa tehtiin erikoinen havainto, kun pyh\u00e4n Brigitan reliikkej\u00e4 tutkittiin n\u00e4yttely\u00e4 varten. Pyhimyksen viitta osoittautui kierr\u00e4tetyksi villamekoksi. Mekko oli leikattu vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n tienoilta ja helma muokattu viitaksi. Birgitan mekon tarina on kiehtonut minua vuositolkulla. Tein viimein mekon, jota olin py\u00f6ritellyt mieless\u00e4ni niin kauan. <\/p>\n<p>A very interesting discovery was made in Sweden in the 1970&#8217;s, when some of the relics of St. Birgitta of Sweden were looked into to be put on display. A mantle attributed to the saint turned out to be a repurposed dress. The dress was cut off at around the waist and made into a cloak. This story of the recycled dress has fascinated me for years. I finally made the dress I had been thinking of for so long.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":21021,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[9,3],"tags":[43,170,191,192],"class_list":["post-21024","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kuvat","category-projektit","tag-mekko","tag-middelaldercentret","tag-p-birgitta","tag-valmis"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/img_4379.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-5t6","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21024","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=21024"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21024\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":21037,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21024\/revisions\/21037"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/21021"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=21024"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=21024"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=21024"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}