{"id":1861,"date":"2013-12-21T14:50:54","date_gmt":"2013-12-21T12:50:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=1861"},"modified":"2013-12-22T17:16:46","modified_gmt":"2013-12-22T15:16:46","slug":"mita-p-birgitta-tekisi-what-would-st-birgitta-do","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=1861","title":{"rendered":"Mit\u00e4 p. Birgitta tekisi? \/ What would St Birgitta do?"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"20131221-144950.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Jokainen k\u00e4sity\u00f6l\u00e4inen tiet\u00e4\u00e4, ettei aina tosiaan mene niinkuin Str\u00f6ms\u00f6ss\u00e4. Joskus hommat menev\u00e4t pieleen ja pahimmillaan j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t kesken. Kaappiin j\u00e4\u00e4 kummittelemaan UFOja (unfinished objects\u00c2\u00a0<\/em>eli keskener\u00e4isi\u00e4 juttuja). Ne painavat mielt\u00e4, mutta on helpottavaa tiet\u00e4\u00e4 niin k\u00e4yv\u00e4n joskus kaikille.<\/p>\n

Pari vuotta sitten ostin kivaa tummanpunaista villaa tehd\u00e4kseni napakasti istuvan 1300-luvun lopun p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekon, v\u00e4h\u00e4n samanlaisen kuin t\u00e4m\u00e4 vihre\u00e4<\/a>. Selk\u00e4sauman istutuksessa k\u00e4vi kuitenkin virhe, joka l\u00e4hti kertautumaan niin, ett\u00e4 mekko oli parantumattomasti vinksallaan v\u00e4h\u00e4n joka kulmasta (Kuva 1.). Olin ehtinyt ommella mekon yl\u00e4osan vuorauksineen kokonaan ennenkuin tajusin etten olisi ikin\u00e4 tyytyv\u00e4inen mekossa. Mekontekele on py\u00f6rinyt siit\u00e4 asti kaapissa.<\/p>\n

Minulla oli nyt tarve saada jouluksi joku k\u00e4sity\u00f6 ja imett\u00e4miseen soveltuva p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekko. Kun sopivaa kangasta ei l\u00f6ytynyt, tuli mieleen kaapin pohjalla py\u00f6rinyt UFO. Jospa siit\u00e4 saisikin jotain?<\/p>\n

T\u00e4ss\u00e4 kohdin p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n luontevasti pyh\u00e4\u00e4n Birgittaan,<\/a> Euroopan ja Ruotsin suojeluspyhimykseen. Birgittaan yhdistet\u00e4\u00e4n monia kiinnostavia reliikkej\u00e4, joista kiinnostavimpia ovat pellavamyssy<\/a> ja viitta.<\/p>\n

Brigitan viitasta on aika v\u00e4h\u00e4n tietoa verkossa<\/a>, mutta siit\u00e4 on hyv\u00e4 artikkeli 1970-luvulla ilmestyneess\u00e4 Birgittareliker-kirjasessa. Viittaa tutkittaessa paljastui, ett\u00e4 se on alunperin ollut p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekko (taskuaukoista p\u00e4\u00e4tellen) joka oli muutettu viitaksi leikkamalla joko liian kulunut tai tiukaksi k\u00e4ynyt yl\u00e4osa irti. Emme tietysti voi olla aivan varmoja siit\u00e4, tehtiink\u00f6 muokkaukset Birgitan aikana vai vasta my\u00f6hemmin. Kuitenkin keskiajalla yleisesti muokattiin k\u00e4ytettyj\u00e4 vaatteita uusiksi ja Birgitan legendassakin mainitaan vaatteiden parsiminen ja korjaaminen!<\/p>\n

Koska mekontekele oli hieman ylipitk\u00e4, Birgitan viitan logiikka k\u00e4vi siihen mainiosti. Leikkaamalla ongelmallisen yl\u00e4osan irti saan mekon helmaosasta viel\u00e4 iloa.\u00c2\u00a0Ty\u00f6n edetess\u00e4 oli kokeiltava mekkoa viittana (Kuva 2.) – istui muuten hartioilla yll\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4n hyvin ja mukavammin kuin yksik\u00e4\u00e4n puoliympyr\u00e4viitta! Viittajuttua on ehk\u00e4 pakko kokeilla kun jostain sopivasta mekosta aika j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Saksin yl\u00e4osan irti, poistin vuorauksen, laitoin hartiat uudestaan, suoristin etusauman ja avasin kylkiin hiha-aukot (Kuva 3). Kuvasta jo n\u00e4keekin millainen mekko on tulossa.<\/p>\n

Leikkelin helmaan lis\u00e4kiiloja ja k\u00e4ytin hihoihin varatun kankaan leikkaamalla pienen hupun.\u00c2\u00a0P\u00e4\u00e4sen testaamaan p\u00e4hk\u00e4ilem\u00e4\u00e4ni uudenlaista hupun kaavaa nyt t\u00e4ss\u00e4 samalla.\u00c2\u00a0 Kankaasta j\u00e4i j\u00e4ljelle A4:sen kokoinen pala ja kourallinen suiruja.<\/p>\n

\"20131221-161931.jpg\"<\/a>
Kangas tuli aika tehokkaasti k\u00e4ytetty\u00e4. \/ The fabric tetris worked out well.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"20131221-145040.jpg\"<\/a>
Kankaan leikkaamiseen saa aina kissa-apua \/ Cat help cutting the fabric.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

*****<\/p>\n

Every craftsperson knows that things don’t always work out as intended. Projects mess up and in some cases you give up on them and they end up as UFOs or unfinished objects fairly permanently. That sucks, but it helps knowing that it happens to us all.<\/p>\n

Two years ago I purchased lovely red wool to make a tight fitting late 14th century surcoat, kind of like my green one.<\/a>\u00c2\u00a0Something happened during the fitting and the mishap sort of exploded all over the dress, making it fit in an unsatisfactory way overall (picture 1). I’d sewn up most of the bodice and a lining when I realised I would never be happy in it.<\/p>\n

Fast forward to now.\u00c2\u00a0I needed two things: A project for the holidays and a surcoat I can breast feed in. I had had trouble finding a \u00c2\u00a0suitable fabric. Then I remembered my UFO dress. Perhaps it could turn into something useful after all?<\/span><\/p>\n

This is where we get to St Birgitta of Vadstena, Sweden – the patron saint of Sweden and Europe. Birgitta has quite some interesting relics attributed to her. My favourites are her famous cap<\/a> and her cloak.<\/p>\n

There is not a lot of information on the cloak that is available online<\/a>, but there is a thorough article on it in a book from the 1970’s called Birgittareliker. When the cloak was examined, it was discovered that it had originally been a surcoat (because it had pocket slits) and it had been converted into a cloak by cutting off the tight fitting bodice part, probably because it had either become too tight or too worn. There is no way to tell whether this had been done during Birgitta’s time or later, but it is a contemporary practice to recycle old clothes by modifying them AND Birgittas legend does mention her affection for mending garments.<\/p>\n

Because my dress was a little on the long side, applying the Birgitta-method to it worked splendidly. Cutting off the problematic top part meant I could still use the hem! As I was working on it, I had to try out how it worked as a cloak (picture 2) and somewhat to my suprise, it was\u00c2\u00a0really\u00c2\u00a0<\/em>nice. It fit much better than any of my half circle cloaks. When a dress wears out, I think I will have to try making it into a cloak.<\/p>\n

What I have done this far is: remove the lining, cut off a bit of the bodice, cut armscyes into the sides of the dress, repin the shoulders and straighten out the fron seam. In the picture (3.) you can already see the kind of dress it is shaping up to be. I had some fabric I had reserved for sleeves, but since this will be a sleeveless surcoat, I could use it to make some gores for the hem and there was even enough for a little hood. (I have made a new pattern I am eager to try out.) It was fabric tetris at it’s finest, but I even had an about A4 size piece of excess fabric when I finished.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Jokainen k\u00e4sity\u00f6l\u00e4inen tiet\u00e4\u00e4, ettei aina tosiaan mene niinkuin Str\u00f6ms\u00f6ss\u00e4. Joskus hommat menev\u00e4t pieleen ja pahimmillaan j\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t kesken. Kaappiin j\u00e4\u00e4 kummittelemaan UFOja (unfinished objects\u00c2\u00a0eli keskener\u00e4isi\u00e4 juttuja). Ne painavat mielt\u00e4, mutta on helpottavaa tiet\u00e4\u00e4 niin k\u00e4yv\u00e4n joskus kaikille. Pari vuotta sitten ostin kivaa tummanpunaista villaa tehd\u00e4kseni napakasti istuvan 1300-luvun lopun p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekon, v\u00e4h\u00e4n samanlaisen kuin t\u00e4m\u00e4 vihre\u00e4. Selk\u00e4sauman … <\/p>\n

Jatka lukemista ”Mit\u00e4 p. Birgitta tekisi? \/ What would St Birgitta do?”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[11,2,3],"tags":[104,148,150,149],"class_list":["post-1861","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-historianelavoitys","category-neulakko","category-projektit","tag-huppu","tag-keskenerainen","tag-pyha-birgitta","tag-reliikki"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-u1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1861","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1861"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1861\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1869,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1861\/revisions\/1869"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1861"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1861"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1861"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}