{"id":1513,"date":"2013-05-05T19:51:31","date_gmt":"2013-05-05T16:51:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=1513"},"modified":"2013-05-05T22:16:03","modified_gmt":"2013-05-05T19:16:03","slug":"ei-mitaan-vanhaa-paallepantavaa-ive-nothing-old-to-wear","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=1513","title":{"rendered":"Ei mit\u00e4\u00e4n vanhaa p\u00e4\u00e4llepantavaa! \/ I’ve nothing old to wear!"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"20130505-195131.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Keskiajan kenki\u00e4 harrastava kamuni tutkailee mielell\u00e4\u00e4n sit\u00e4, miten kanssael\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4jien k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00f6keng\u00e4t ovat k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 kuluneet ja vertaa kulumia aitojen keskiaikaisten kenkien kulumiin.<\/p>\n

My\u00f6s kangas kantaa k\u00e4yt\u00f6n j\u00e4ljet ja kertoo vaatteen tarinaa. Joskus kuluminen tai varsinkin sen puute voi paljastaa yll\u00e4tyksi\u00e4, kuten sen, ettei vaate ollut ihmisen k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 vaan patsaan p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4, kuten k\u00e4vi Turun tuomiokirkon mekon miehustan kanssa.<\/p>\n

Mekkoa korjaillessa olen hauskasti huomannut kulutuksen merkit juuri aidoissa paikoissa. Hyv\u00e4! Kenki\u00e4 tutkineella kaverillani oli nimitt\u00e4in teoria, ett\u00e4 ennallistus on onnistunut, kun kulutus n\u00e4kyy samalla tapaa kuin keskiaikaisissa vastineissa.<\/p>\n

Mekko on kulunut kainaloiden ja maata viist\u00e4v\u00e4n helman lis\u00e4ksi mm. kiillojen k\u00e4rjist\u00e4 (niinkuin siit\u00e4 kohtaa paikattu Moyn mekko) ja vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lt\u00e4, jossa vy\u00f6n k\u00e4ytt\u00f6 mekon p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 on j\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt selv\u00e4n j\u00e4ljen (kuten Bockstenin tunikassa). Kiinnityksiss\u00e4 on kulumaa ny\u00f6ritysreikien kohdalla siin\u00e4, miss\u00e4 ny\u00f6ri kulkee ja nappien kannoissa on l\u00f6ystym\u00e4\u00e4 (vrt Lontoon nappi- ja ny\u00f6rinreik\u00e4kappaleet).<\/p>\n

Korjaillessani olen miettinyt kulutusta ja vaatteiden k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4. T\u00e4m\u00e4 mekko on vaatteistani varmaankin k\u00e4ytetyin ja kulunein. Se oli kuitenkin intensiivisess\u00e4 tapahtumak\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 vain noin kaksi vuotta, mist\u00e4 tulee arviolta parhaimmillaankin 60 p\u00e4iv\u00e4\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Keskiajan arjen mittapuulla vaate on siis edelleen uusi.<\/p>\n

Se pist\u00e4\u00e4 miettim\u00e4\u00e4n.<\/p>\n

Harrastamiseni ytimess\u00e4 on jatkuva kilvoittelu itseni kanssa: tavoitteenani on antaa olemuksellani mahdollisimman aikakautinen kuva siit\u00e4, milt\u00e4 keskiajan asukokonaisuus olisi n\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt. Eik\u00e4 keskiajalla jatkuvasti kuljettu uusissa vaatteissa.<\/p>\n

Suurella osalla ihmisist\u00e4 ei ollut edes yht\u00e4 suurta vaatevarastoa kuin monella el\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4j\u00e4ll\u00e4 nyky\u00e4\u00e4n on. Vaatteet k\u00e4ytettiin loppuun huolella: niit\u00e4 parsittiin, muodistettiin, annettiin palvelijoille, myytiin k\u00e4ytettyin\u00e4 ja j\u00e4tettiin perinn\u00f6ksi.<\/p>\n

Oikeasti yksi siisteimmist\u00e4 vaatejutuista v\u00e4h\u00e4\u00e4n aikaan oli Albrechtsin yhden miesv\u00e4en edustajan (en muista kenen) parsitun mekon tarina: taisteluhaverissa vaatteelle oli roiskunut verta, joka oli kuivunut sijoilleen, kunnes y\u00f6n aikana avulias jyrsij\u00e4 oli k\u00e4ynyt nakertamassa vaatteesta vain ja ainoastaan veriset kohdat pois. Nykyisell\u00e4\u00e4n vaate on taidokkaasti parsittu jyrsittyjen kohtien kohdalla.<\/p>\n

Vaatteita pit\u00e4isi siis ilolla k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 pitk\u00e4\u00e4n ja hartaasti (vaikka niille tapahtuisikin jotain \u00e4ll\u00f6\u00e4), siis mik\u00e4li haluaa n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 oikealta keskiajan ihmiselt\u00e4 eik\u00e4 hyvin puetulta nukelta museossa.<\/p>\n

Miksi se sitten on niin vaikeaa?<\/p>\n

1) Vaatteiden tekeminen on lysti\u00e4! Ja on hulppeaa tallustella uusi mekko p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 pitosaliin, my\u00f6nnet\u00e4\u00e4n. Ja uudet vaatteet ovat edellisi\u00e4 paremmin tehtyj\u00e4. Ainakin minulla kesti pitk\u00e4\u00e4n ennenkuin sain aikaan mekon, johon olin niin tyytyv\u00e4inen, ett\u00e4 ilomielin kulutin sit\u00e4 vuositolkulla.<\/p>\n

2) On olemassa kummallista painetta k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 upouusia vaatteita. En tarkoita, ett\u00e4 kulkisin vastedes likaisissa ja rikkin\u00e4isiss\u00e4 ryysyiss\u00e4 kuten huonon historiallisen elokuvan ekstra – olihan keskiajalla kunnia-asia ett\u00e4 vaatteet olivat siistit (eli siis parsitut, suhteellisen puhtaat ja s\u00e4\u00e4dylliset vaikkakin vanhat). Mutta semmoinen, ett\u00e4 esimerkiksi kerran kilpailussa vaatteeni sai miinuspisteit\u00e4 siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 sit\u00e4 oli k\u00e4ytetty, on kyll\u00e4 aivan hassua. Kyse on, tavallaan, keskiaikaisen ja modernin estetiikan yhteent\u00f6rm\u00e4yksest\u00e4. Vain uusi on nyky\u00e4\u00e4n kaunista.<\/p>\n

3) El\u00e4mme historiallisesti kummallista kertak\u00e4ytt\u00f6muodin aikaa ja olemme tottuneet siihen, ett\u00e4 aina pit\u00e4isi olla jotain uutta p\u00e4\u00e4llepantavaa. Varsinkin kun tapahtuu jotain kivaa tai t\u00e4rke\u00e4\u00e4. Oikeasti, historianel\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4j\u00e4t usein ennen tapahtumia stressaavat siit\u00e4, ettei ole mit\u00e4\u00e4n uutta p\u00e4\u00e4llepantavaa! Vaikka sen pit\u00e4isi melkein olla p\u00e4invastoin!<\/p>\n

Seh\u00e4n olisi…aika vapauttavaa, eik\u00f6?<\/p>\n

****
\nA friend who is into medieval footwear likes to observe how our reproduction shoes wear and tear with use, comparing that to the wear patterns on extant medieval shoes.<\/p>\n

Wear patterns are also visible on clothing. They tell us the story of how the item was or wasn’t worn. Sometimes the lack of wear can be a most telling thing – like in the case of the dress piece from Turku cathedral which turned out to have been worn by a statue instead of a person.<\/p>\n

Repairing and readjusting my old dress has led to delightful observations of wear in just the the proper places. Great! My friend with the inclination towards shoes had this theory, that a good reproduction wears in the same places as the extant originals.<\/p>\n

Besides the obvious hem and armpits, the dress is worn at the tips of the gores (think where the Moy bog gown was patched) and at the waist, where I have worn a belt and it shows (just like, say, on the Bocksten tunic). Also the closures, button stalks and innner edge of lacing holes (think London finds) show wear.<\/p>\n

I’ve been thinking a lot about wear and the use of clothing, kind of carrying on from my previous post. The red dress is probably my most used and worn dress. However, it had only a maximum of two years of heavy event use, which adds up to only about 60 days of active wear.<\/p>\n

So on the terms of medieval everyday life and consumption, the dress is still brand new.<\/p>\n

That really makes me think. (<- insert minicrisis here)<\/p>\n

The hard core of my hobby is a personal quest to strive towards giving a portrayal that would be as authentic as possible. And medieval people did NOT constantly parade around in brand new clothing!<\/p>\n

Facing the facts: most medieval people didn’t have such an extensive wardrobe as many living history folks these days do. Clothing was well worn and worn out, changed, recycled, mended, sold, given to servants and bequeathed as we well know.<\/p>\n

Actually one of the coolest clothing – related stories in a while was the story of how one of the men (can’t remember who) from Albrechts b\u00f6ss\u00f6r had bled on his tunic and during the night a helpful rodent found his clothes and neatly chewed off the bloody spots. Now the tunic has these holes neatly mended.<\/p>\n

And the moral of the story is that you should mend and wear your clothes with pride and joy (regardless of icky stuff happening) – that is if you want to look like a real medieval person instead of a well dressed exhibition dummy in a museum.<\/p>\n

Then why is it so hard?<\/p>\n

1) Making clothes is fun! And the feeling of showing off something new is great. Also, clothes tend to improve as you make more of them. For me at least it took several years tolearn how to make a dress that I was happy enough with to let it age with wear.<\/p>\n

2 ) There is this odd pressure to keep making new things even if you don’t really need them. Now I’m not proclaiming that from now on I will lurk about on dirty broken old clothing like an extra from a bad historical movie, since the medieval sensibility also dictates that to be proper you should still keep tidy and your clothes mended, even if they were old. But just sayin’ that things like having points deduced in a competition just because the dress you entered had been worn is downright silly if you think about what went on historically. But it is all a matter of medieval and modern sensibilities and aesthetics clashing I think. Nowadays we are inclined to think that only new stuff is pretty.<\/p>\n

3) We live in historically unusual times of abundant consumption, cheap stuff and throwaway fashion. We are used to have something new to wear, especially when something fun or important happens. Really, living history folks do worry about having nothing new to wear, when the problem should actually be the opposite!<\/p>\n

And that thought is sort of… liberating, isn’t it?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Keskiajan kenki\u00e4 harrastava kamuni tutkailee mielell\u00e4\u00e4n sit\u00e4, miten kanssael\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4jien k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00f6keng\u00e4t ovat k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 kuluneet ja vertaa kulumia aitojen keskiaikaisten kenkien kulumiin. My\u00f6s kangas kantaa k\u00e4yt\u00f6n j\u00e4ljet ja kertoo vaatteen tarinaa. Joskus kuluminen tai varsinkin sen puute voi paljastaa yll\u00e4tyksi\u00e4, kuten sen, ettei vaate ollut ihmisen k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 vaan patsaan p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4, kuten k\u00e4vi Turun tuomiokirkon mekon miehustan kanssa. … <\/p>\n

Jatka lukemista ”Ei mit\u00e4\u00e4n vanhaa p\u00e4\u00e4llepantavaa! \/ I’ve nothing old to wear!”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[11,3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1513","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-historianelavoitys","category-projektit"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-op","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1513","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1513"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1513\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1518,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1513\/revisions\/1518"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1513"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1513"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1513"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}