{"id":1504,"date":"2013-04-14T11:35:34","date_gmt":"2013-04-14T08:35:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=1504"},"modified":"2013-04-14T18:36:43","modified_gmt":"2013-04-14T15:36:43","slug":"painavaa-asiaa-weight-matters","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=1504","title":{"rendered":"Painavaa asiaa \/ Weight matters"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"20130414-113523.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

T\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n asiaa painosta -\u00c2\u00a0 ei ihmisten vaan mekkojen!<\/p>\n

Useimmiten kes\u00e4n markkinoilla k\u00e4vij\u00e4t sortseissaan kyselev\u00e4t ymm\u00e4rrett\u00e4v\u00e4sti siit\u00e4, miten kuumia keskiaikamekot ovat. Kerta toisensa j\u00e4lkeen olen vakuuttanut, ettei villamekko ole niin kuuma kuin ensi silm\u00e4lt\u00e4 luulisi. On ohutta villaa, on hengitt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 sataprosenttista villaa ja niin edelleen.<\/p>\n

Sen sijaan k\u00e4ytt\u00e4j\u00e4kokemuksen kannalta keskiaika- ja nykyaikavaatteiden painossa on huomattava ero. Keskiaikaisessa asukokonaisuudessa\u00c2\u00a0 – kun lasketaan yhteen\u00c2\u00a0 alusmekko = n. 2,5 m (150cm leve\u00e4\u00e4) pellavaa + mekko=n. 3m villaa + p\u00e4\u00e4llysmekko=n. 3m villaa + p\u00e4\u00e4hine n. 1,5m pellavaa + vy\u00f6t ym. , tulee pelk\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n n\u00e4ist\u00e4 – ilman mahdollisen vuorauksen laskemista mukaan – yhteens\u00e4 noin 10m kangasta. Ja se on aika paljon. Pit\u00e4isi joskus punnita paljonko se kaikki painaa.<\/p>\n

Painoasia tuli mieleen liittyen harkinnan alla olevaan projektiin. Yll\u00e4 olevassa kuvassa on vasemmalla vuonna 2008 valmistunut Herjolfsnesin kaavaa mukaillen tehty punainen mekko <\/a>ja oikealla Moy Bog- mekko<\/a> vm. 2010. Ensi silm\u00e4yksell\u00e4 niiss\u00e4 ei n\u00e4yt\u00e4 olevan juuri eroa. Mutta: mekko vasemmalla painaa 1,6 kg kun uudempi kollegansa oikealla painaa vain 700g. Se on siis alle puolet toisen painosta!<\/p>\n

Molemmat mekot on tehty suhteellisen samanapaksuisesta villasta. Herjolfsnes- mekossa on enemm\u00e4n helmaa ja kiiloja, mutta huiman painoeron suurin selitt\u00e4v\u00e4 tekij\u00e4 on pellavavuoraus. Painavampi mekko on vuorattu kokonaan<\/a> ihanan tukevalla (= paksulla) luonnonv\u00e4risell\u00e4 pellavakankaalla, kun Moyn mekkoa ei ole vuorattu ollenkaan, vaan siin\u00e4 on vain kapeat pellavasuirut ny\u00f6rityksen ja napituksen vahvikkeina.<\/p>\n

Oikeastaan minusta vanhempi punainen mekko on tosi ihana. Mutta olen silti k\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt sit\u00e4 h\u00e4vett\u00e4v\u00e4n v\u00e4h\u00e4n. Painon lis\u00e4ksi alkujaan t\u00e4sm\u00e4lleen sopiva pellavavuori on (kuten pellavalla on tapana, toisin kuin villalla) venynyt k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4. Olen sit\u00e4 kertaalleen jo lyhent\u00e4nyt, mutta\u00c2\u00a0 nyt se taas pilkist\u00e4\u00e4 villahelman alta (n\u00e4kyy muuten yll\u00e4 kuvassakin). Se imee maasta kosteutta, joka nousee helmassa yl\u00f6sp\u00e4in. Ja se kosteus viipyy pitk\u00e4\u00e4n. Yll\u00e4 on siis mekko, jossa villa on kuivaa mutta pellavavuori on tuntitolkulla polviin asti nihke\u00e4. Yh.<\/p>\n

Olen siis ajatellut huoltaa vanhaa kunnon mekkoa, ett\u00e4 saisin sen uudelleen tehok\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n. Olen ajatellut karusti napsaista pellavavuoren lyhyemm\u00e4ksi niin, ett\u00e4 se vuoraisi vain mekon yl\u00e4osan, kuten Margareeta I:n kuuluisassa kultaisessa mekossa. Tavallaan omat kokemukset ovat auttaneet n\u00e4kem\u00e4\u00e4n hienouden siin\u00e4 ratkaisussa. Vuoraus tuo tukea sinne miss\u00e4 sit\u00e4 eniten tarvitaan, mutt\u00e4 se on j\u00e4tetty pois sielt\u00e4, miss\u00e4 se ei ole v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4t\u00f6n.<\/p>\n

Millaisia kokemuksia teill\u00e4 on vaatteiden vuoraamisesta? Oletteko muuten ikin\u00e4 punninneet keskiaikavaatteitanne?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

Weight issues! Not with me, but the dresses!<\/p>\n

When out and about in medieval clothing, people often ask whether it is super warm. I tell them that wool can be quite comfy and not so warm. But you know, I think the biggest difference in what medieval clothing feels like vs. modern clothes it the weight.<\/p>\n

Counting linen underdress + dress + overdress + headdress easily adds up to 10 meters of fabric to ba carried around and that’s quite a lot. I should sometimes weigh how much an entire outfit adds up to.<\/p>\n

I started thinking about dresses and weight regarding a project I am considering. In the picture above, you can see two red dresses that look quite much alike. The red dress on the left was made in 2008 <\/a>and is based on the Herjolfsnes dresses, with some modifications (i.e. lacing and other details).\u00c2\u00a0 On the left, there is the Moy Bog gown from 2010.\u00c2\u00a0<\/a>At first, there seems to be very little difference in the two dresses. But the older one weighs 1,6 kilos while the other weighs only 700 grams! The other one is more than double the weight of the Moy bog dress!!<\/p>\n

The Herjolfsnes one has more gores and more hem, but the biggest difference to explain the weight is that it is fully lined<\/a> in fine, sturdy natural colored linen. The Moy Bog one has only thin strips to support the lining and the button holes.<\/p>\n

I’ve used the heavier dress fairly little since the newer one was finished. It’s a shame really, since I think it is actually quite lovely. Besides the weight, the linen lining has another unpleasant quality. Due to it’s linen character, it stretches (I’ve adjusted it once already) with use and starts peeking out from under the hem (look closely at the picture and you’ll see it peeking out). The linen also powersucks moisture from the ground, the capillary phenomenon raises it up the fabric and being linen, the moisture stays put. So even once the grass has dried, the dress is still damp up to around my knee on the inside. Yurgh.<\/p>\n

I’ve decided to give my faithful old dress a maintenance round so that I woul use it more. I’m thinking about cutting the linen lining off up to approximately around my hips, in the style of the linen lining in queen Margareta’s golden gown. My experience has led me to really appreciate that solution: the lining gives support and sturdiness where it is needed but it’s not hanging around being a bother in areas where it wouldn’t be so necessary.<\/p>\n

What do you think? What are your experiences in lining clothes? Have you ever weighed your dresses?<\/em> <\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

T\u00e4n\u00e4\u00e4n asiaa painosta -\u00c2\u00a0 ei ihmisten vaan mekkojen! Useimmiten kes\u00e4n markkinoilla k\u00e4vij\u00e4t sortseissaan kyselev\u00e4t ymm\u00e4rrett\u00e4v\u00e4sti siit\u00e4, miten kuumia keskiaikamekot ovat. Kerta toisensa j\u00e4lkeen olen vakuuttanut, ettei villamekko ole niin kuuma kuin ensi silm\u00e4lt\u00e4 luulisi. On ohutta villaa, on hengitt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 sataprosenttista villaa ja niin edelleen. Sen sijaan k\u00e4ytt\u00e4j\u00e4kokemuksen kannalta keskiaika- ja nykyaikavaatteiden painossa on huomattava ero. … <\/p>\n

Jatka lukemista ”Painavaa asiaa \/ Weight matters”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2,3],"tags":[138],"class_list":["post-1504","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-neulakko","category-projektit","tag-uusi-punainen"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-og","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1504","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1504"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1504\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1506,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1504\/revisions\/1506"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1504"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1504"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1504"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}