{"id":1356,"date":"2012-11-17T15:12:47","date_gmt":"2012-11-17T13:12:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=1356"},"modified":"2012-11-17T18:33:53","modified_gmt":"2012-11-17T16:33:53","slug":"hiusneula-lontoosta-hairpins-from-london-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=1356","title":{"rendered":"Hiusneula Lontoosta \/ Hairpins from London"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"20121117-151221.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Aina v\u00e4lill\u00e4 iskee into kokeilla jotain uutta ja jotain ihan muuta kuin tavalliset k\u00e4sity\u00f6hommat. Viime aikoina eniten ovat mieless\u00e4 ja y\u00f6p\u00f6yd\u00e4n kirjapinoissa py\u00f6rineet erin\u00e4iset metallihommat. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 ensimm\u00e4inen kokeilu: kaksi hiusneulaa, jotka on koristelty metallilangasta kierretyll\u00e4 spiraalilla.<\/p>\n

Alkuper\u00e4inen neula on Lontoon kaupunginmuseon kokoelmissa. Se on l\u00f6ydety Finsbury Circuksesta ja on ajoitettu 1300-luvulle. Arvellaan, ett\u00e4 sit\u00e4 on alunperin k\u00e4ytetty joko hiusten tai sitten huntup\u00e4\u00e4hineen kiinnitt\u00e4miseen. Hiusneula l\u00f6ytyy Egan & Pritchardin Dress Accessories – kirjasta. Jostain syyst\u00e4 kirjassa on ainoastaan neulan silhuetti, mutta tekstin perusteella ja kuvan mittailulla saa aika hyv\u00e4n k\u00e4sityksen alkuper\u00e4isest\u00e4 neulasta. Kirjoittajat vertaavat hauskasti koristekiharaa r\u00f6yhel\u00f6hunnun muotoon.<\/p>\n

\"20121117-151317.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Alkuper\u00e4isen materiaaliksi mainitaan englanniksi copper alloy wire, joka olisi oikeaoppisimmin pronssilankaa. Kun l\u00f6ysin k\u00e4tk\u00f6ist\u00e4ni messinkilankaa suhteellisen oikeissa paksuuksissa, joten oli pakko kuitenkin kokeilla sill\u00e4 t\u00e4t\u00e4 mystist\u00e4 neulaa.<\/p>\n

Yl\u00e4kuvassa n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t materiaalit – mit\u00e4\u00e4n ihmeellisi\u00e4 metallity\u00f6kaluja ei t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 kaupunkiresidenssiss\u00e4 ole. Projektissa k\u00e4ytin metallilankaa, l\u00e4hdekirjallisuutta, leikkuulautaa, sivuleikkureita sek\u00e4 pihtej\u00e4 ja samalla ryystin gotlantilaisen Kr\u00e4nku-puodin Ringmursblandning-teet\u00e4 (joka on lemppariani). Kissa-apu oli luonnollisesti l\u00e4sn\u00e4. Kierretty metallilanka on muuten erityisen kiinnostavaa kissojen mielest\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Alakuvan ensimm\u00e4isess\u00e4 versiossa n\u00e4kyy messinkilangan huono puoli – se on aivan tavattoman pehme\u00e4\u00e4. Sit\u00e4 piti kovettaa, muttei kuitenkaan liikaa. Koska hiusneulan muoto muistuttaa niin kovasti modernia U:n muotoista ns. henget\u00f6nt\u00e4 hiuspinni\u00e4, n\u00e4in sen koko ajan keskiaikaisena vastineena sellaiselle. Kuten hyv\u00e4n hengett\u00f6m\u00e4n, olisi t\u00e4m\u00e4nkin hiusneulan hyv\u00e4 olla hieman taipuisa.<\/p>\n

\"20121117-151341.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Sopivan kovuus\/taipuisuusasteen saavuttamiseksi oli lankaa ty\u00f6stett\u00e4v\u00e4. Keskiaikaisia menetelmi\u00e4 metallilangan ty\u00f6st\u00e4miseen ovat niin vasara ja alasin kuin vet\u00e4minen t\u00e4t\u00e4 tarkoitusta varten rei’itetyn levyn l\u00e4vitse. Kumpaankaan ei ollut v\u00e4lineiden puolesta mahdollisuutta. Onneksi kuitenkin viestin p\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 p\u00e4ivyst\u00e4v\u00e4 metallity\u00f6n ja arkeologian asiantuntija Kimmo vinkkasi, ett\u00e4 lankaa voi pakottaa kovemmaksi my\u00f6s hinkkamalla sit\u00e4 metalliesineell\u00e4 kovaa alustaa vasten.<\/p>\n

Kuten kuvista n\u00e4kee, pakottaminen onnistui mainiosti (ja j\u00e4tti k\u00e4siin samalla aidon metallity\u00f6n j\u00e4ljen) ja seuraavista neuloista tuli ensimm\u00e4ist\u00e4 neulaa suoremmat ja tukevammat.<\/p>\n

Viimeisess\u00e4 kuvassa on neula tositoimissa (\u00e4lk\u00e4\u00e4 kiinnitt\u00e4k\u00f6 huomiota vaaleanpunaiseen tukkaan). Se h\u00e4din tuskin erottuu hiuksista ja toimii aivan mahtavan hyvin. Se on lopulta ehk\u00e4 p\u00e4iv\u00e4n sensaatiomaisimmalta tuntuva havainto.<\/p>\n

Jokainen keskiaikaisia sivulettej\u00e4 kasaillut tiet\u00e4\u00e4 sen hankaluuden. N\u00e4ill\u00e4 neuloilla se kuitenkin sujui niin vaivatta, ett\u00e4 voisi arvailla n\u00e4iden olleen siihen tarkoitettuja! Tein ohimolta alkavan letin, taitoin sen ja ty\u00f6nsin neulan ylh\u00e4\u00e4lt\u00e4 letin sis\u00e4\u00e4n. Pujottelin neulaa letin sis\u00e4ss\u00e4 kuten henget\u00f6nt\u00e4 nutturaa kootessa. Neula toimi t\u00e4ydellisesti – se j\u00e4ykisti letin ja samalla kiinnitti sen ohimolle. Vaikka miten kallistin tai heilutin p\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4, letti pysyi paikoillaan.<\/p>\n

Seuraavaksi olisi hauskaa kokeilla n\u00e4it\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n pidempiin hiuksiin, tehd\u00e4 ainakin yhden pronssilangasta ja kirjoittaa museoon ja pyyt\u00e4\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n lis\u00e4tietoja alkuper\u00e4isest\u00e4.<\/p>\n

****<\/p>\n

Every now and then I get the urge to try something new and different from the crafts that I usually do. Lately I’ve been thinking and reading a lot about metalwork and metal dress accessories. This is my first try at something completely new: two hairpins with coiled wire decorations.<\/p>\n

The original that these pins are based on is a find from Finsbury Circus that has been dated to the 14th century. It has probably been used to fasten hair or a headdress. It is described in Egan and Pritchard’s Dress Accessories (one of the Museum of London books). For some reason the pin is pictured only as a silhouette, but measuring the picture and reading the description does give a quite\u00c2\u00a0 good idea of the original. The writers make an interesting comparison – comparing the look of the curly wire decoration to the silhouette of a frilled veil!<\/p>\n

The original is said to be made from copper alloy wire – so the closest alternative to that would possibly be bronze wire. But I found I had some brass wire in almost the perfect gauge I had to give a go at making a pin like this slightly mysterious one form London.<\/p>\n

Known medieval ways to harden the wire are the good old anvil and hammer -combo as well as drawing the wire through a drawing plate specially drilled for this purpose. I lacked both these alternatives. Thankfully my friend Kimmo who is very knowledgeable in both metalwork and archaeology suggested I could harden the wire by just rubbing it with something metallic against a hard surface. That had the same hardening effect and the next pins turned out better (and that gave my hands the look of metalwork).<\/p>\n

In the last picture you can see the pin in use (overlook the pink hair). You can hardly see it, but it works absolutely marvellously. This I think was the most sensational moment in all of this.<\/p>\n

Everyone who has set (or tried to) their hair in these cornettes- type braids knows it’s not the easiest thing. But with these pins, it was super simple! I braided my hair at the temples, folded the braid and secured it with the pin, using it like I would my modern hairpins, threading it into the hair and fastening it at the temple. It just did exactly what it was supposed to. The braid was stiff and firmly attached. I could shake my head and the braids would not budge.<\/p>\n

What I would like to try next is some bronze wire, try these on someone with longer hair and perhaps write to the museum and ask a few questions about the originals.<\/p>\n

In the picture above you can see all the materials I had at hand. I don’t have any very proper metalwork tools here at my very urban residence. All I used was the previously mentioned wire, some source literature, cutters, pliers, a cutting board. I kept myself going with my very favourite Ringmursblandning-tea from Kr\u00e4nku in Gotland. Oh and cat assistance too! Coiled wire is VERY interesting to cats.<\/p>\n

In my first version of the pin which you can see below the cat assistant you’ll notice the downside of the brass wire. It is really really soft. It needed to be hardened, but not too much. The shape of the hairpin reminded me a lot of the hairpins I use (ie the non bobby pin- kind of u-shaped hairpins) when doing up my hair. I kept thinking about this as a medieval equivalent to those. It should be a little bendy.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Aina v\u00e4lill\u00e4 iskee into kokeilla jotain uutta ja jotain ihan muuta kuin tavalliset k\u00e4sity\u00f6hommat. Viime aikoina eniten ovat mieless\u00e4 ja y\u00f6p\u00f6yd\u00e4n kirjapinoissa py\u00f6rineet erin\u00e4iset metallihommat. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 ensimm\u00e4inen kokeilu: kaksi hiusneulaa, jotka on koristelty metallilangasta kierretyll\u00e4 spiraalilla. Alkuper\u00e4inen neula on Lontoon kaupunginmuseon kokoelmissa. Se on l\u00f6ydety Finsbury Circuksesta ja on ajoitettu 1300-luvulle. Arvellaan, ett\u00e4 sit\u00e4 on … <\/p>\n

Jatka lukemista ”Hiusneula Lontoosta \/ Hairpins from London”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3,13],"tags":[130,132,131,133],"class_list":["post-1356","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-projektit","category-tutkimus","tag-hiukset","tag-hiusneulat","tag-letit","tag-metallityot"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-lS","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1356","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1356"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1356\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1362,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1356\/revisions\/1362"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1356"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1356"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1356"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}