{"id":1140,"date":"2012-04-24T10:34:12","date_gmt":"2012-04-24T07:34:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=1140"},"modified":"2012-04-24T10:34:12","modified_gmt":"2012-04-24T07:34:12","slug":"royhelo-on-uusi-musta-frills-are-the-new-black","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=1140","title":{"rendered":"R\u00f6yhel\u00f6 on uusi musta \/ Frills are the new black"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"20120423-230109.jpg\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Historianel\u00e4v\u00f6ityksen ydinsesonki on tuloillaan. Tapahtumia, markkinoita ja muuta tervehenkist\u00e4 ulkoasumista riitt\u00e4\u00e4 niin, ettei tied\u00e4 aina miten lomaviikkonsa asettelisi. T\u00e4n\u00e4 kes\u00e4n\u00e4 tulee keskiaikailtua touko-hein\u00e4kuussa yhteens\u00e4 noin 3 viikkoa. Huh.<\/p>\n

Kev\u00e4\u00e4seen liittyykin varustepaniikin tunne. Tietoisuus siit\u00e4, ett\u00e4 kamoja pit\u00e4isi korjailla, tehd\u00e4 ainakin tylsi\u00e4 alusmekkoja ja sukkia – vaikka eniten haluaisi uuden mekon. Mieleen hiipii my\u00f6s lista kaikesta, mit\u00e4 viime kes\u00e4n\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4tti omaan leiriin hankkia tai nikkaroida. Ja kaikki pit\u00e4isi tehd\u00e4 nyt, koska kes\u00e4ll\u00e4 ei kumminkaan ehdi.<\/p>\n

T\u00e4n\u00e4 kev\u00e4\u00e4n\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4tin (tai ainakin yrit\u00e4n) antaa piutpaut paniikille, koska kaiken j\u00e4rjen mukaan minulla nyt kuitenkin todistetusti on paljon ihan kunnollisia vaatteita ja mukava leiri. Jos en saa puoliksi leikelty\u00e4 mekkoa valmiiksi kes\u00e4ksi, en siihen varmaankaan kuole.<\/p>\n

T\u00e4n\u00e4 kes\u00e4n\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4tin panostaa asusteisiin. T\u00e4rkeimp\u00e4n\u00e4 niist\u00e4 r\u00f6yhel\u00f6huntu saksalaiseen tapaan: kolme kerrosta otsalle ja kaksi niskaan. Lis\u00e4ksi on vet\u00e4isty silkkiloimi otsapantaa varten, valmistettu kauluri, ommeltu puolivalmis pikkuhuppu ja tilattu uudet patiinit. Niist\u00e4 my\u00f6hemmin.<\/p>\n

Hauskinta on nimitt\u00e4in hunnun tekeminen. Projektissa on muutama uusi ajatus kokeilussa: huntu on malliltaan erilainen kuin koskaan aikaisemmin, kerroksia on enemm\u00e4n ja lis\u00e4ksi ajattelin kokeilla sen kiinni neulaamista ompelemisen sijaan. Saa n\u00e4hd\u00e4, miten kaikki uutuudet toimivat. Se on jo varmaa, ett\u00e4 siit\u00e4 tulee p\u00f6rhe\u00e4mpi kuin mik\u00e4\u00e4n!<\/p>\n

Hunnun r\u00f6yhel\u00f6t on nyt p\u00e4\u00e4rm\u00e4tty (yhteens\u00e4 reilu 8 metri\u00e4) ja alustavasti rypytetty, mutta lopulliseen muotoonsa asettelen ne neuloilla ja t\u00e4rkill\u00e4. Nyt osaa olen kokeilumieless\u00e4 neulannut, se n\u00e4kyy kuvissa.<\/p>\n

Neulaamisen idea syntyi r\u00f6yhel\u00f6huntukurssilla Jennin tudor-kaulusta tutkiessa. Olisiko huntur\u00f6yhel\u00f6it\u00e4 sittenkin aseteltu samalla tavalla? Puntarissa painoi my\u00f6s oma huono kokemus siit\u00e4, miten pienten s-r\u00f6yhel\u00f6iden t\u00e4rkk\u00e4\u00e4minen muotoonsa pesun j\u00e4lkeen on melkein mahdotonta. Neuloilla kootun r\u00f6yhel\u00f6n huolto on paljon helpompaa, mist\u00e4 on hy\u00f6ty\u00e4 ihmiselle, jolla on taipumus pirskottaa punaviini\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4lleen.<\/p>\n

Erin\u00e4isten kokeiluiden j\u00e4lkeen p\u00e4\u00e4dyin samaan tulokseen kuin muutkin t\u00e4t\u00e4 saksalaistyyppist\u00e4 huntua tehneet: alar\u00f6yhel\u00f6 asettuu paremmin, kun huntua muotoilee tavanomaista puoliympyr\u00e4\u00e4 enemm\u00e4n. Huntuun tulee siis sauma taakse, ja se on muodoltaan ik\u00e4\u00e4nkuin pieni huppu. Siit\u00e4 l\u00e4hti ajatus hunnun kaavoituksesta. Pieni Luttrell-huppuni oli l\u00e4hestulkoon passeli kooltaan ja malliltaan, joten aloitin kaavoituksen sen perusteella. Alla kuvassa n\u00e4kyy kaavan kehitys hupusta paperin kautta pellavalle.<\/p>\n

\"20120423-131023.jpg\"<\/a>
Hunnun kaavoituksen muut kehitysvaiheet \/ other phases of the hood pattern<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

V\u00e4list\u00e4 puuttuu t\u00e4rke\u00e4 lakanakangasmallailun vaihe, jolloin ramppasin sinivalkoinen koeversio p\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 peilin edess\u00e4 laittamassa aina vain lis\u00e4\u00e4 neuloja ja asettelemassa huntua, v\u00e4h\u00e4n niinkuin joku raiteiltaan nyrj\u00e4ht\u00e4nyt smurffi. Voi olla, ett\u00e4 t\u00e4llaista huntua pit\u00e4\u00e4 jokaisen sovittaa itselleen sopivaksi niin, ett\u00e4 l\u00f6ytyy se omille mittasuhteille sopivin ja p\u00e4\u00e4ss\u00e4 pysyv\u00e4 muoto.<\/p>\n

\"20120423-130947.jpg\"<\/a>
Hunnun sovittelua lakanakankaasta, r\u00f6yhel\u00f6t vain osittain aseteltuna \/ Drafting the veil from scrap fabric, half the frills still unpinned.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nyt ompelelen huntua kasaan. T\u00e4rkk\u00e4yksen ja neulaamisen j\u00e4lkeen n\u00e4hd\u00e4\u00e4n, mit\u00e4 siit\u00e4 tulee.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

****<\/p>\n

The summertime high season is just around the corner, bringing about a certain panic about things to be done before all the days (alltogether 3 weeks) I plan on going medieval this summer.<\/p>\n

It’s always the same: stuff needs to be mended, there is a need for boring things like hose and underdresses when you’d rather just make a new gown. All those plans for the encampment made last summer are still just what they were: plans. And stuff needs to happen now, since during the summer there will never be time to make things when one is just too busy using them.<\/p>\n

This year I have decided (or I am at least trying) to take some distance from the usual panik machen<\/em>. I have concluded that I have, actually, a nice medieval wardrobe of fairly nice clothes and the camp is actually pretty OK too. So should I not finish a new dress for the summer I will not a) go naked or b) perish.<\/p>\n

Instead I have decided to focus on accessories (since they make the outfit, right?). The most important thing is a german style frilled veil, but I have also set up a loom to weave a silk headband on, made a small hood, made a collar and ordered new pattens. But more about those later.<\/p>\n

Since the only thing I really can focus on is frills. The veil project includes a lot of new things: the veil will be shaped, I’m pinning the frills and there are more layers than before. I’m excited to see how all these things work out, but the end result will be super frilly, is for sure.<\/p>\n

I’ve now hemmed all the approx 8 meters of frills and pleated them loosely to the desired lenght. I’ve done some trial setting (see pics) of the s-frills, but I intend to set the actual frills with both starch and pins.<\/p>\n

I started thinking about the pins at our frilled veil class, when I was examining Jennis tudor collar, which made me wonder if the way of rsetting frills on veils could have been similar to what they did on collars. I was also tempted to try something else than sewing because of the trouble I had had with the washing of my small s-frilled veil and making the frills set. A pinned version would be easier to wash, which is a good thing if you are a person like me, that tends to frequently splash red wine on oneself.<\/p>\n

After several tryouts, I came to the same conclusion as several others about the shape of the veil: the back frill sits where is should if you make a seam at the back of the head like a little hood. This gave me the idea of use my luttrell hood as a starting point for the pattern drafting. I think this kind of hood probably requires to be fitted to sit well. So last weekend\u00c2\u00a0I spent a lot of time adjusting pins, tucking in my pattern made from blue scrap fabric and looking like some kind of deranged smurf.<\/p>\n

Now the only thing that is left is finishing the veil, attaching the frills and some starching and pinning!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Historianel\u00e4v\u00f6ityksen ydinsesonki on tuloillaan. Tapahtumia, markkinoita ja muuta tervehenkist\u00e4 ulkoasumista riitt\u00e4\u00e4 niin, ettei tied\u00e4 aina miten lomaviikkonsa asettelisi. T\u00e4n\u00e4 kes\u00e4n\u00e4 tulee keskiaikailtua touko-hein\u00e4kuussa yhteens\u00e4 noin 3 viikkoa. Huh. Kev\u00e4\u00e4seen liittyykin varustepaniikin tunne. Tietoisuus siit\u00e4, ett\u00e4 kamoja pit\u00e4isi korjailla, tehd\u00e4 ainakin tylsi\u00e4 alusmekkoja ja sukkia – vaikka eniten haluaisi uuden mekon. Mieleen hiipii my\u00f6s lista kaikesta, … <\/p>\n

Jatka lukemista ”R\u00f6yhel\u00f6 on uusi musta \/ Frills are the new black”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[11,3],"tags":[113,110],"class_list":["post-1140","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-historianelavoitys","category-projektit","tag-kevatpaniikki","tag-royhelohunnut"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-io","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1140","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1140"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1140\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1162,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1140\/revisions\/1162"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1140"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1140"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1140"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}