{"id":1024,"date":"2011-10-08T15:31:33","date_gmt":"2011-10-08T12:31:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.neulakko.net\/?p=1024"},"modified":"2011-10-08T15:45:17","modified_gmt":"2011-10-08T12:45:17","slug":"palavyo-plaque-belt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/?p=1024","title":{"rendered":"Palavy\u00f6 \/ Plaque belt"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>
Vy\u00f6n valmistus kera kissa-avun \/ Making the belt with cat help<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Palavy\u00f6n (joka n\u00e4kyy keskiaikavaatteiden kanssa t\u00e4ss\u00e4 kuvassa<\/a>) tarina alkoi vuonna 2010, jolloin osallistuin Ruotsissa inspiroivan Adriellen maanmainiolle palavy\u00f6luennoille. Kuten siell\u00e4kin k\u00e4vi ilmi, palav\u00f6it\u00e4 on moneen l\u00e4ht\u00f6\u00f6n: metallikoristeet ovat eri muotoisia, eri tavoin koristeltuja ja kiinnitetty monin tavoin ja erilaisiin materiaaleihin. Palav\u00f6iden yhdist\u00e4v\u00e4 tekij\u00e4, joka erottaa ne muista metallikoristellusta keskiajan v\u00f6ist\u00e4 on se, ett\u00e4 niiss\u00e4 metallikoristeet ovat suuria ja vy\u00f6n n\u00e4kyvin osa.<\/p>\n

Omaa silm\u00e4\u00e4ni on aina eniten miellytt\u00e4nyt perinteisin ja yksinkertaisin malli, jossa kohollaan olevat neliskanttiset palat on kiinnitetty vy\u00f6h\u00f6n. Eik\u00e4 tietenk\u00e4\u00e4n v\u00e4hiten kuningatar Helvigin <\/a> takia. Palav\u00f6it\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy naisilla miehi\u00e4 harvemmin, ja Helvig on yksi harvoista pohjoismaisista esimerkeist\u00e4.<\/p>\n

Palavy\u00f6n ilmestyminen liittyi vaatteiden leikkauksen muuttumiseen vartalonmy\u00f6t\u00e4iseksi. Se oli keskiajalla kovasti puhuttanut asuste, erityisesti naisilla. Se aiheutti n\u00e4r\u00e4\u00e4 siksi, ett\u00e4 sit\u00e4 pidettiin vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6n sijasta lanteilla, kohdassa jossa oli ennen totuttu n\u00e4kem\u00e4\u00e4n vain v\u00f6ist\u00e4 maskuliinisin, miekkavy\u00f6. Palavy\u00f6 naisen lanteilla n\u00e4htiin siksi pyrkimyksen\u00e4 tavoitella miehen asemaa.<\/p>\n

\"Codex<\/a>
Palavy\u00f6t lanteilla sek\u00e4 miehill\u00e4 ja nasilla \/ Both sexes wearing hip belts Kuvan l\u00e4hde: Manuscript miniatures<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Palavy\u00f6n tekij\u00e4n suurin haaste n\u00e4in\u00e4 p\u00e4ivin\u00e4 on se, ett\u00e4 sopivia paloja on vaikea l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4. Upeita paloja<\/a> on saatavilla, mutta niill\u00e4 on tietenkin hintansa (joka ei ole ihan halpa). Adriellen oman vy\u00f6n tapaan tehdyt palat tulevat edullisemmiksi, sill\u00e4 niit\u00e4 ei ole kokonaan valettu metallista, vaan ne on ly\u00f6ty metallilevyst\u00e4 muotin avulla. Aloitimme Sahran<\/a> kanssa tekij\u00e4n suostuttelun heti Ruotsinmatkalta kotiuduttua ja viime kes\u00e4n\u00e4 sain palat hyppysiini.<\/p>\n

Sen j\u00e4lkeen oli en\u00e4\u00e4 teht\u00e4v\u00e4 hieman nahkat\u00f6it\u00e4. Olen siin\u00e4 mieless\u00e4 onnekas, ett\u00e4 naapurini\u00c2\u00a0 Eme on varsin ansioitunut nahkat\u00f6iden tekij\u00e4 ja ennen kaikkea k\u00e4rsiv\u00e4llinen ty\u00f6nohjaaja. Leikkelin naapurin vuodista vy\u00f6n molemmat nahkakerrokset: itse vy\u00f6 on paksua kasviparkittua nahkaa ja se on vuorattu ohuemmalla kasviparkitulla nahalla. Lis\u00e4ksi sain lainata nahkaty\u00f6kaluja ja nauttia kissa-avusta. Kuva yll\u00e4 ei siis ole lavastettu, vaan kuten uskoa saattaa, naapurin kissa tunkemalla tunki itsens\u00e4 tuohon v\u00e4liin. Juuri siihen, jossa piti keskittyneesti k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 hyvin ter\u00e4vi\u00e4 ty\u00f6kaluja.<\/p>\n

Kun kaikki palat oli taivuteltu (kuvassa yll\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy paloja ennen kiinnityst\u00e4, kiinnityssiivekkeet auki) paikalleen niille leikatuille paikoille, vuorasin vy\u00f6n toisella nahalla niin etteiv\u00e4t palojen siivekkeet tartu mekkoon ja ett\u00e4 vy\u00f6 laskeutuu villavaatteiden p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 mukavasti mahdollisimman alas lanteille.<\/p>\n

Vy\u00f6n kiinnitys oli varsinainen aivop\u00e4hkin\u00e4. Kuvissa ei yleens\u00e4 n\u00e4y kiinnityst\u00e4. Se lie siis totetutettu jollain varsin n\u00e4kym\u00e4tt\u00f6m\u00e4ll\u00e4 tavalla, todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isesti niin ett\u00e4 pari palaa on erikseen kiinnitykseen tarkoitettu ja ett\u00e4 ne kiinnittyv\u00e4t toisiinsa huomaamattomasti. Omissa paloissani ei t\u00e4ll\u00e4isi\u00e4 ollut, joten jouduin soveltamaan. K\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4ni materiaalit ovat keskiaikaisia, mutta (toim. huom.) t\u00e4m\u00e4 ei ole mihink\u00e4\u00e4n muuhun kuin tarpeeseen ja k\u00e4yt\u00e4nt\u00f6\u00f6n perustuva oma ratkaisuni kiinnitysongelmaan.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Valmis vy\u00f6 vuorineen ja kiinnityksineen. Klikkaa suuremmaksi! \/ Finished belt with lining and buckles. Click to see the full size!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Olen omaan vy\u00f6h\u00f6ni aika tyytyv\u00e4inen. Se n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 juuri silt\u00e4 milt\u00e4 pit\u00e4\u00e4kin. Metallilevyjen hapettuessa niist\u00e4 tulee minusta viel\u00e4 kivemman n\u00e4k\u00f6isi\u00e4, sill\u00e4 en ole erityisemmin kullankiilt\u00e4vyyden per\u00e4\u00e4n. Kahden soljen kiinnitys on osoittautunut k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 toimivaksi, sill\u00e4 sen avulla saa vy\u00f6n kokoa s\u00e4\u00e4detty\u00e4 sen mukaan, miten paksuja mekkoja ja monta kerrosta sattuu oleman p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4.<\/p>\n

T\u00e4ll\u00e4 tavalla tehtyn\u00e4 palavy\u00f6st\u00e4 tulee paljon kevyempi kuin valetuista metallikappaleista. Siin\u00e4 on sek\u00e4 hyvi\u00e4 ett\u00e4 huono puoli. Keveydess\u00e4 on etu sek\u00e4 k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4 ett\u00e4 matkustaessa. Kun pelk\u00e4t vaatteeet tuovat jonkun lis\u00e4kilon, ei erityisemmin kaipaa metallista sukellusvy\u00f6t\u00e4 tuomaan askeleeseen lis\u00e4\u00e4 arvokkuutta. Toisaalta keveys on t\u00e4m\u00e4n vy\u00f6n huono puoli: sen sijaan ett\u00e4 se pysyisi alhaalla lanteilla, vy\u00f6 on osoittanut pient\u00e4 taipumusta nousta yl\u00f6sp\u00e4in, jos se p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 touhuaa kovasti.Ep\u00e4ilen, ett\u00e4 jos se painaisi v\u00e4h\u00e4n enemm\u00e4n, t\u00e4t\u00e4 ongelmaa ei olisi.<\/p>\n

Jatkossa saatan tuunata sille lis\u00e4\u00e4 painoa ja ehk\u00e4 kehit\u00e4n kiinnityst\u00e4, mutta jo t\u00e4ll\u00e4isen\u00e4kin se on varsin komea asuste, joka sopii erityisen hyvin r\u00f6yhel\u00f6huntujen ja istuvien mekkojen kanssa.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Tadaaa!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

*****<\/p>\n

The story of this plaque belt begins in Sweden in 2010, when I participated in a very interesting class on plaque belts by the inspiring Adrielle. It was pointed out again, that plaque belts came in many different shapes and sizes, in and on different materials. I guess I could say that what makes a plaque belt (as opposed to a normal girdle with metal decorations) is that in a plaque belt the metal decorations are large and make up the most of the visible surface of the belt.<\/p>\n

The style that has always appeared most pleasing and appealing to my eye, has been the most common and simple kind of plaque belt: one where simple square metal plaques are attached to a belt quite close to each other. The fashionable Queen Helvig <\/a>of course has quite a lot to do with this style inclination of mine. These belts are seen more often on men than women and the stylish queen is a rare nordic example of this style.<\/p>\n

The appearance of plaque belts in fashion is closely linked to clothing becoming more fitted. And both these changes were very debated styles in medieval society. Especially women wearing these belts on their hips caused a stir.\u00c2\u00a0 Belts on the hip had been seen only on men, as the hip was the place for the most masculine belt of them all, the sword belt. So women wearing these hip belts were seen to aspire to the status of men.<\/p>\n

These days the biggest challenge someone making a plaque belt faces is fnding the proper plaques. Now there are some absolutely fantastic plaques <\/a>out there, which come at a (steep) price. The benefit of making a plaque belt like Adrielle’s own is that the plaques are not cast out of solid metal, but stamped out of sheet metal. Me and\u00c2\u00a0 Sahra <\/a>started to persuade a smith almost immediately on arrival home from Sweden and this summer I got my hands on my plaques at the Turku medieval market.<\/p>\n

After that, it was time for some leatherwork. I’m lucky since my neighbour Eme happens to be very good with leather, has all the tools and most importantly, is a patient teacher. So I cut out the belt from leather in her stash: the top is thick vegetable tanned leather, the inside a thinner one. My neighbours cat was also very helpful, placing himself right in the middle of things, especially cutting the leather with very sharp tools.<\/p>\n

When all the plaques had been placed (in the picture above you can see how it works when you see the plaques with their wings open) on the belt, I lined the belt with the thinner leather so it can slide easily down onto my hips on the wool.<\/p>\n

The belt attachment was a bit of a brain puzzle. The pictures of plaque belts don’t really show attachments, which means they were probably done in a way that made the attachment invisible on the outside. This can be done with a pair of special plaques that clip onto each other. I unfortunately didn’t have plaques like this, so I made the best of what I had available. I added two small replica brooches. This looks good and works just fine, but regardless of medieval materials and methods used, is not based on any source. It was more a choice of necessity and availability.<\/p>\n

All in all, I am very happy with how the belt turned out. It looks like it should and as the plaques get darker, they look even nicer to my eye, because I’m not so into golden glimmery things. The two buckles have proven practical, since they allow adjusting the belt to the amount of clothing you are wearing it with.<\/p>\n

Stamped plaques are a lot lighter than cast ones. This has its pros and cons. The belt is light so it is easy to travel with and move in. When you clothes alone add a kilo or two, you do not really miss a diving belt to weigh you down. However, the lightness makes the belt not stay put on the hips as well as I assume a slightly heavier one would. If it was a bit heavier, it wouldn’t hike up like it does now.<\/p>\n

Sometime I may improve the belt with a new attachment system and by weighing it down a bit. But for now I am happily wearing it, as it looks smashing with fitted dresses and frilled veils!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Palavy\u00f6n (joka n\u00e4kyy keskiaikavaatteiden kanssa t\u00e4ss\u00e4 kuvassa) tarina alkoi vuonna 2010, jolloin osallistuin Ruotsissa inspiroivan Adriellen maanmainiolle palavy\u00f6luennoille. Kuten siell\u00e4kin k\u00e4vi ilmi, palav\u00f6it\u00e4 on moneen l\u00e4ht\u00f6\u00f6n: metallikoristeet ovat eri muotoisia, eri tavoin koristeltuja ja kiinnitetty monin tavoin ja erilaisiin materiaaleihin. Palav\u00f6iden yhdist\u00e4v\u00e4 tekij\u00e4, joka erottaa ne muista metallikoristellusta keskiajan v\u00f6ist\u00e4 on se, ett\u00e4 niiss\u00e4 metallikoristeet … <\/p>\n

Jatka lukemista ”Palavy\u00f6 \/ Plaque belt”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3],"tags":[100,99,102,98,101],"class_list":["post-1024","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-projektit","tag-asusteet","tag-kissa-apu","tag-nahkatyot","tag-palavyo","tag-vyot"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3uIb4-gw","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1024","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1024"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1024\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1036,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1024\/revisions\/1036"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1024"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1024"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neulakko.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1024"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}